Every aquarist should have a hospital tank—also called a quarantine or treatment tank. This simple setup prevents disease outbreaks, protects your display tank from medication damage, and dramatically increases survival rates when fish get sick. In this guide, you’ll learn exactly how to set up an effective hospital tank and follow a proven 14-day treatment plan for fin rot, ich, fungal infections, parasites, and bacterial issues. Whether you’re treating a betta or a full community fish, this plan offers safe, beginner-friendly steps.
Why Every Aquarist Needs a Hospital Tank
A hospital tank allows you to isolate sick or injured fish in a controlled environment. This prevents disease from spreading and makes treatment far more effective.
Benefits of a Hospital Tank
Protects your main tank from harsh medications
Reduces stress by giving the fish a calm, simple space
Allows accurate dosing of medications
Prevents disease outbreaks in your display tank
Saves money by using much less medication
Many new fishkeepers attempt to medicate the entire aquarium—but this often kills beneficial bacteria, harms invertebrates, and risks plants. A hospital tank is safer and cheaper.
Hospital Tank Setup (Beginner-Friendly)
You do not need a complex setup to build an effective hospital tank. Keep it simple, clean, and easy to monitor.
Recommended Tank Size
5 gallons — Betta, guppies, small tetras
10–20 gallons — Medium fish, multiple small fish
Essential Equipment
Sponge filter (gentle flow, safe for medications)
Heater (for tropical fish)
Lid (sick fish jump more often)
Air pump (increases oxygen during medication)
Substrate & Decorations
Hospital tanks should be bare-bottom to make cleaning easy.
No gravel or sand
No plants (most medications harm them)
Use only 1–2 hiding spots such as PVC pipes or ceramic caves
Water Parameters
Use water that matches your main tank to reduce stress:
Never mix medications unless instructions allow it.
14-Day Hospital Tank Treatment Plan
This routine works for most infections, including fin rot, ich, velvet, fungal issues, and mild bacterial problems. Severe cases may require repeated cycles.
Day 1: Setup and Transfer
Set up hospital tank with clean, temperature-matched water
Add sponge filter and heater
Move sick fish gently using container transfer (avoid nets)
Dim lights—sick fish stress easily
Day 1–3: Start Medication + Salt
Begin the appropriate treatment:
Ich / Velvet: Use ich medication + aquarium salt
Fin Rot: Use broad-spectrum antibiotic
Fungal Issues: Antifungal medication
Parasites: PraziPro or metronidazole
Add 1 teaspoon aquarium salt per 5 gallons unless treating salt-sensitive species (loaches, shrimp, scaleless fish).
Feeding During Treatment
Feed lightly once per day
Remove leftovers after 5 minutes
Use high-quality frozen or live foods to support immunity
Day 4–7: Water Changes + Re-dose
Perform 25–30% water changes daily
Re-dose medication according to instructions
Increase aeration—meds reduce oxygen levels
Day 8–10: Monitor Healing
Signs of improvement:
Fin rot edges turning white and regrowing
Ich spots falling off
Reduced lethargy
Stronger appetite
If symptoms worsen, switch to a stronger medication.
Day 11–14: Recovery Phase
Stop medication and run activated carbon (optional) to clear water
Feed high-quality foods
Continue small daily water changes
Keep tank dim and stress-free
Do NOT return fish to the main tank until they show:
Clear eyes
No spots, redness, or swelling
Strong appetite
Normal swimming behavior
How to Safely Disinfect the Hospital Tank
Remove all water
Rinse system with hot water
Use 1:10 bleach solution for equipment (rinse thoroughly afterward)
Let tank and tools air-dry completely—drying kills pathogens
Compatibility Notes and Special Cases
Species-Specific Considerations
Loaches and Corydoras: Sensitive to salt and strong meds
Shrimp: Cannot be medicated with copper-based treatments
Bettas: Respond well to salt + clean water routine
Do Not Treat These Problems in a Hospital Tank
Ammonia or nitrite poisoning (fix main tank immediately)
Aggressive tankmate issues (separate permanently)
Common Beginner Mistakes
Mixing medications—dangerous chemical interactions
Using carbon during treatment—it removes medications
Skipping water changes—toxins build rapidly in small tanks
Returning fish too early—infection spreads again
Overfeeding—sick fish produce more ammonia
Takeaway: A Hospital Tank Saves Fish—and Headaches
A properly set up hospital tank gives fish the best chance at recovery by offering clean water, precise medication, and a stress-free environment. When used alongside a structured 14-day treatment plan, it can save fish that would otherwise deteriorate in a community tank. Whether you're treating ich, fin rot, parasites, or injuries, a simple quarantine tank is one of the most powerful tools in aquarium care.
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