So after having my tank run for about 2 weeks with no fish I introduced 3 Zebra Danios, 1 Black molley, and 1 Red Tail Shark(today). I also picked up a 'Complete Water Test Kit' by API. My results are:
Ph ~8.0
Nitrite ~3
Nitrate ~40
Amonia ~.25
My whole plan is to get these readings to where I can house 8-10 Cichlids. I'm pretty sure the Ph is acceptable but I know the others are very high, especially the Nitrite.
Is this due to the newness of the tank or am I doing something completely horrible to my current fish? Plz help.
p.s. this forum needs a place to add a signature so I can keep my tank specs on every post :P
55gal, Penguin 350 4 filter pads, Undergravel Filter w/ carbon, med/large gravel, large piece of store bought driftwood, and ~45lbs of slate rock.
Water testing
37 posts • Page 1 of 4
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
Do-you-have-a-powerhead-on-your-undergravel-filter?.....Your-nitrate-and-ammonia-are-way-too-high.....With-a-powerhead-the-UGF-will-become-a-great-cycling-filter-and-your-tank's-water-should-get-well-quickly....
I'm-guessing-that-your-cycle-is-just-starting,-as-you-just-introduced-fish....I'd-do-30%-water-changes-per-day-till-ammonia-and-nitrites-are-zero,and-then-do-water-changes-less-often-to-keep-nitrates-below-10,-which-is-the-recommended-level-warenting-a-water-change-I-think...The-ammonia-and-nitrites-should-go-to-zero-soon...Feed-verysparingly-till-those-levels-go-down-and-you-should-be-fine.......Peter
I'm-guessing-that-your-cycle-is-just-starting,-as-you-just-introduced-fish....I'd-do-30%-water-changes-per-day-till-ammonia-and-nitrites-are-zero,and-then-do-water-changes-less-often-to-keep-nitrates-below-10,-which-is-the-recommended-level-warenting-a-water-change-I-think...The-ammonia-and-nitrites-should-go-to-zero-soon...Feed-verysparingly-till-those-levels-go-down-and-you-should-be-fine.......Peter
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darkruby - Posts: 87
- Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:00 am
Just to answer your other question Splif... Any ammount of nitrate and ammonium can "harm" your fish. It depends on the their tolerant level.
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masterjedibudt - Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 4:28 pm
Amonia is the #1 killer & Nitrite is #2.....do like 30% water changes every 3-4 days and don't over feed your fish...be sure once a day to feed them but only feed them a small amount that you can see them eat...do not leave un eaten food in the tank when it is not cycled....keep a very close eye on the Amonia & Nitrite...until it is cycled....
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a1k8t31524 - Posts: 939
- Joined: Sat May 26, 2007 5:10 am
i tested my water today after
PH 7.2
Ammo 4.0
Nitrate 5
Nitrite 0
i know the ammo is high so i did a 20%change
it just seems weird that ammonia is high but nitrite is nothing
PH 7.2
Ammo 4.0
Nitrate 5
Nitrite 0
i know the ammo is high so i did a 20%change
it just seems weird that ammonia is high but nitrite is nothing
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
I-think-in-order-to-grow-ammonia-converting-bacteria-you-may-have-too-toxic-level-of-ammonia...Do-enough-and-big-enough-water-changes-to-get-it-way-down,-at-least-to-1ppm..daily(IMO).....That's-still-really-high-level,-but-feed-even-less(to-much-food-makes-more-ammonia)and-do-more-water-changing...remember-dechlorinator.......If-it's-too-toxic-cycling-bacteria-cannot-get-started....Peter
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Poetic_Irony2267 - Posts: 297
- Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 8:42 pm
here is where i normally chime in with the start over fish cycling technique that i often use, all of the above are great suggestions and will help you but seeing as you now have fish which are creating a higher level of bio load in the tank than what you should have at this point, i would suggest as peter stated a fifty to 75% water change, now by doing this it will restart your cycle and will allow plenty of time for the natural ammo eating bacteria to generate in the tank, starting out slowly is a good idea and most follow this, however the waste load you now have in your tank is higher than what the bacteria levels can handle, so do a large water change and dechlorinate the water as pk stated, also do not add anymore fish until your ammo levels read 0. at that point you can be sure that the water specs are right on and ready for the addition of new fish, as far as the fish you have mentioned if you plan on adding cichlids be prepared to lose those fish you have already, the cichlids can and will eat them.
hope this helps,
Brandon
hope this helps,
Brandon
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spongebob4460 - Posts: 603
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:37 am
definitely need a powerhead on a ugf in a 55 gallon. I agree with everyones suggestions... move slowly, dont add more than 3 fish a week when starting out, and preferably none until the cycle finishes. keep us updated and test your water atleast every other day
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splif - Posts: 13
- Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 6:28 am
ok, ive done 20% water changes for last 3 days, im going to test my water in the am and Ill post the results. what exactly does a powerhead do? im not familiar with them. can someone provide a link to one that would be appropriate?
Again, thank you all for your responses.
Again, thank you all for your responses.
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Poetic_Irony2267 - Posts: 297
- Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 8:42 pm
powerheads will suck water down through the gravel, and up and out of the power head so hooking that up to your tube that comes up from the ug filter will act as a super filter for you. here is a link to give you an idea, http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/11460/product.web
hope this helps.
Brandon
hope this helps.
Brandon