Dont wait a week.
As soon as you change everything over put the fish in.
If you leave the new tank fishless and you are not feeding it, all the bacteria will die and you will have to start from scratch, really something you dont want to do if you can help it.
The worst you will get from the changeover is a mini cycle, the fish will cope through that no probs
Smelly tank
62 posts • Page 3 of 7
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esparzar1 - Posts: 164
- Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:31 pm
After reading these post please let me know if I have the information correct. A 20 Gallon Tank? I’m know I’m completely off topic but I see too many problems with this tank to not speak up.
Please take nothing personal from this but like other mentioned, 20 Gal is WAAAAY to small for the fish you currently have. Bala Sharks get huge (over 1 ft) and like to be in groups of at least 5. The minimum tank size you would want with a bala is probably 300 gal. Also the "Electric Blue" cichlid you have can get up to 8 inches big, the minimum tank size you should have that fish in is 120 gal. The 1 inch rule is a great rule for most freshwater fish but absolutely does not apply to African Cichlids.
Keep on researching and asking questions, you will get there :)
Please take nothing personal from this but like other mentioned, 20 Gal is WAAAAY to small for the fish you currently have. Bala Sharks get huge (over 1 ft) and like to be in groups of at least 5. The minimum tank size you would want with a bala is probably 300 gal. Also the "Electric Blue" cichlid you have can get up to 8 inches big, the minimum tank size you should have that fish in is 120 gal. The 1 inch rule is a great rule for most freshwater fish but absolutely does not apply to African Cichlids.
Keep on researching and asking questions, you will get there :)
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mzhantsche - Posts: 115
- Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:27 am
Esparzar...u said u read these post. Start from the beggining of the topic and read down. We adressed this issue and i will be taking my balas and cichlids back to the store. Thanks for the concern but i have been warned muiltiple times about this.
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
I agree with Alasse, as soon as you switch over to the new tank, place your beginner fish or fishes into the tank, reason...?
fish poop creates ammonia (first phase of the cycle), the ammonia breaks down because the good bacteria is feeding off the ammonia, in time, ammonia will turn into nitrite, good bacteria is still feeding, then into nitrate (last phase of the cycle), after ammonia and nitrite drop to 0, and nitrate remains at 20-35 ppm, the good bacteria will continue to feed off the nitrate plus, as time goes by, the good bacteria will accumulate to the point that it is not overhwlemed by feedings, fish poop, "dirt" in the gravel (from food, poop, etc falling in between the tiny pieces of gravel)...after about 6 months to a year, the good bacteria will be able to handle most any problem in the tank; so that by the time the tank is a year old (established), you will have a good bed of good bacteria (in gravel, filter media and all over any object in the tank).......but I am sure you've been down this road with your 20 gallon tank
key is, fish poop is key to begin the cycle or even mini cycles (reason some tanks go into mini cycles is because the good bacteria is overwhelmed by ammonia or some other chemical that it can't keep up with)
so anyway, as soon as you switch the old material into the new tank, put in your fish...then it's just a matter of time (during the first few weeks: observe, (liquid) water test, water change, feed lightly then to normal feeding level, observe (you are observing any abnormal signs, that is, every fish has certain needs, if the fish is acting abnormally, you know there is a problem), and repeat the routine
so if you decide to get just one redtail shark, place this fish only into the tank...wait for about a week or so before adding the next fish (say 6 dwarf chain loaches)...best way to tell is do water tests, watch the ammonia and nitrite, if the ammonia is too high or the nitrite is too high, put off getting any other fish (just use reason)...I'm sure you have gone down this orad already with the 20 gallon)...if you do get the redtail shark, be sure to build the mid-level caves/ledges...I hope you do have liquid tests (more accurate)...if for any reason, just let us know on what's going on and we'll help you
anyway, let us know how it all goes, it will be most interesting how things work themselves in your case, and let us know which fish you did decide to get and which fish went into the tank first...nice thread
fish poop creates ammonia (first phase of the cycle), the ammonia breaks down because the good bacteria is feeding off the ammonia, in time, ammonia will turn into nitrite, good bacteria is still feeding, then into nitrate (last phase of the cycle), after ammonia and nitrite drop to 0, and nitrate remains at 20-35 ppm, the good bacteria will continue to feed off the nitrate plus, as time goes by, the good bacteria will accumulate to the point that it is not overhwlemed by feedings, fish poop, "dirt" in the gravel (from food, poop, etc falling in between the tiny pieces of gravel)...after about 6 months to a year, the good bacteria will be able to handle most any problem in the tank; so that by the time the tank is a year old (established), you will have a good bed of good bacteria (in gravel, filter media and all over any object in the tank).......but I am sure you've been down this road with your 20 gallon tank
key is, fish poop is key to begin the cycle or even mini cycles (reason some tanks go into mini cycles is because the good bacteria is overwhelmed by ammonia or some other chemical that it can't keep up with)
so anyway, as soon as you switch the old material into the new tank, put in your fish...then it's just a matter of time (during the first few weeks: observe, (liquid) water test, water change, feed lightly then to normal feeding level, observe (you are observing any abnormal signs, that is, every fish has certain needs, if the fish is acting abnormally, you know there is a problem), and repeat the routine
so if you decide to get just one redtail shark, place this fish only into the tank...wait for about a week or so before adding the next fish (say 6 dwarf chain loaches)...best way to tell is do water tests, watch the ammonia and nitrite, if the ammonia is too high or the nitrite is too high, put off getting any other fish (just use reason)...I'm sure you have gone down this orad already with the 20 gallon)...if you do get the redtail shark, be sure to build the mid-level caves/ledges...I hope you do have liquid tests (more accurate)...if for any reason, just let us know on what's going on and we'll help you
anyway, let us know how it all goes, it will be most interesting how things work themselves in your case, and let us know which fish you did decide to get and which fish went into the tank first...nice thread
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esparzar1 - Posts: 164
- Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:31 pm
mzhantsche,
My appoligies. It's good to hear that you found solutions to your fish situation :) The red tail shark is a pretty cool fish! I actually have a rainbow shark and it's very similar to the red tail. I actually like the color of the rainbow more but both are cool fish. If no one has already told you, make sure you do not have more than 1 shark in your tank. If you have more than one they become very aggressive towards eachother until only 1 is left. Also, I read that you were possibly interested in African Cichlids (maybe later?) if so, shoot me a private message. Cichlids are my personal favorite. I started in tropical fish (tetra/guppies/etc) and since then have moved to african cichlids. IMO, is was the best move ever! Good luck with everything.
My appoligies. It's good to hear that you found solutions to your fish situation :) The red tail shark is a pretty cool fish! I actually have a rainbow shark and it's very similar to the red tail. I actually like the color of the rainbow more but both are cool fish. If no one has already told you, make sure you do not have more than 1 shark in your tank. If you have more than one they become very aggressive towards eachother until only 1 is left. Also, I read that you were possibly interested in African Cichlids (maybe later?) if so, shoot me a private message. Cichlids are my personal favorite. I started in tropical fish (tetra/guppies/etc) and since then have moved to african cichlids. IMO, is was the best move ever! Good luck with everything.
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
1 redtail shark will be a good beginning as the first fish into the 30 gallon tank after you switch all the old material into the new one...do your water testing, water changing, observing...then add the next batch of fish, best to go with a school of about 6 3 inch or under fish but that are in the semi-aggressive category.
Semi-aggressive fish are very interesting once the right balance is achieved. Currently, I am in the process of upgrading, very slowly, from fresh water peaceful to semi-aggressive (even though I have peaceful fish in the tank, their territories are well established, so so far it's working, but it must be done in a very slow manner)
so after the 1 redtail shark...which school fo semi-aggressive fish do you plan on putting into the tank (just curious)?
Semi-aggressive fish are very interesting once the right balance is achieved. Currently, I am in the process of upgrading, very slowly, from fresh water peaceful to semi-aggressive (even though I have peaceful fish in the tank, their territories are well established, so so far it's working, but it must be done in a very slow manner)
so after the 1 redtail shark...which school fo semi-aggressive fish do you plan on putting into the tank (just curious)?
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
Green tiger barbs will be cool, school of 6...good choice
dwarf chain loaches (a little expensive, but these little guys can live up to 12 years old)
Double Full Red Cockatoo Cichlid or the Panda Dwarf Cichlid (both fish are much more expensive, for a school of 6 of either one would run about $450.00...but it could be a long term wishful thinking fish(s), so to speak...these fish get to be about 3 inches, is actually timid even though it is semi-aggressive)
Red Minor Serpae Tetra (are very cheap fish, less than $3.00 each, grow to about 2 inches and are semi-aggressive - only tetra fish that is this way; so if you do not go the dwarf chain loach route you can get this type of tetra)
American Flagfish (as I stated before, this is another surefire bet)
All these fish require caves/ledges made of real rock (slate for ledges and a few river rocks for foundation and sides of the cave); preferably you can get live plants (anubias is a very hardy plant that can handle any type of fluctuation in a tank (temperature, chemical, majority of fish) though they do grow very slow) and wood (malaysian or any type of bogwood. So with live plants, rock and wood, then anything else you like to add, will give the 2 schools of fish (6 of each fish, Green Tiger Barb and one other school) plus the one redtail shark its most basic living quarters.
Possibly in the future you can get a small water flow pump to create a faster current underwater in the 30 gallon or just use the filter (should be 300 gph as described before) as a way to get some current in the water for these fish like moving water...be sure to leave open space so the fish can swim freely...get a heater and a stick on temperature gauge...and whatever lighting you think you need (dependent on the type of plant you get)...and you should be set.
I am very curious and interested in this project of yours, let us/me know how things progress...I am here as are others to help you every step of the way. Never hesitate to ask questions. I look forward to seeing the development of this aquarium.
dwarf chain loaches (a little expensive, but these little guys can live up to 12 years old)
Double Full Red Cockatoo Cichlid or the Panda Dwarf Cichlid (both fish are much more expensive, for a school of 6 of either one would run about $450.00...but it could be a long term wishful thinking fish(s), so to speak...these fish get to be about 3 inches, is actually timid even though it is semi-aggressive)
Red Minor Serpae Tetra (are very cheap fish, less than $3.00 each, grow to about 2 inches and are semi-aggressive - only tetra fish that is this way; so if you do not go the dwarf chain loach route you can get this type of tetra)
American Flagfish (as I stated before, this is another surefire bet)
All these fish require caves/ledges made of real rock (slate for ledges and a few river rocks for foundation and sides of the cave); preferably you can get live plants (anubias is a very hardy plant that can handle any type of fluctuation in a tank (temperature, chemical, majority of fish) though they do grow very slow) and wood (malaysian or any type of bogwood. So with live plants, rock and wood, then anything else you like to add, will give the 2 schools of fish (6 of each fish, Green Tiger Barb and one other school) plus the one redtail shark its most basic living quarters.
Possibly in the future you can get a small water flow pump to create a faster current underwater in the 30 gallon or just use the filter (should be 300 gph as described before) as a way to get some current in the water for these fish like moving water...be sure to leave open space so the fish can swim freely...get a heater and a stick on temperature gauge...and whatever lighting you think you need (dependent on the type of plant you get)...and you should be set.
I am very curious and interested in this project of yours, let us/me know how things progress...I am here as are others to help you every step of the way. Never hesitate to ask questions. I look forward to seeing the development of this aquarium.
