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 Changing the water in the fish tank is a maintenance chore that when done correctly and often, improve the quality of living for the fish in the tank. Even with the most efficient and sophisticated filtration systems set up, noting works better that changing the tank water.

 Besides the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels that we try to neutralize with our "friendly" anaerobic bacteria, we must worry about general debris and other chemicals that build up in the tank. This article discusses changing the tank water, tips for making this chore easier, and warnings to keep in mind when changing the water.

How Often and How Much Water to Change?

 Fish hobbyists use to wait once a month to change the entire tank. This method results in a large water change stressing the fish. Waiting that long to change the water strains the filtration systems as well as forces the fish to live in dirty water for longer than they should. Most of the fish hobby world now agrees it makes better sense to change a little bit of tank water as often as possible.

 Try to schedule a water change every two weeks at a minimum. If changing the water every two weeks, go for a ? tank change each time. Instead of changing the water once every week, go ahead and change out 10% of the total water volume each time.

Tips to Make Changing the Water Easier

• If you own a small enough tank, take a small cup and scoop the water out, but an easier way through the use of a siphon. A siphon is a thin tubing that sucks the water out of the tank and drain it into a bucket on the floor. If you purchase a battery operated siphon, using gravity to pull the water out is not a concern.
• When siphoning, take the water from the bottom of the tank to remove as much mulm as possible as well. Rake through the gravel bed before siphoning to release the mulm in the sand. Pick up any large pieces of debris that could clog the siphon hose. Mulm, organic debris, is "black gold" to gardeners but more like "black death" to the tank occupants. This applies more to a "fish only" tank. If you have a planted tank, keep the siphon near the top of the tank to avoid disturbing the substrate.
• For reef systems you can setup "automatic" water changes coming out of the sump pump.

Warnings

• Don't forget to condition any new water before adding it to the tank. Just like you needed to condition the water before putting it in the tank in the first place, you'll need to watch the chlorine and chloramines levels before adding new water to the tank on a routine basis. Let the water stand for 24 hours and treat with conditioner.
• Check the pH level of the water before adding it to the tank. Wait 5-10 minutes before testing the pH level of the water (not a problem since you should for the chlorine and chloramines levels to settle). Consider buffering the new water so that the pH is close to the tank water's pH. This article talks more about tank water chemistry in general.
• Get the new water to the same temperature and salinity (for saltwater tanks) before replacing the water. Many fish hobbyists prepare the new water a day before changing the tank water.
• Do not change too much water at a time. Unless conducting an "emergency" water change, limit the water change to ? of the total volume. Otherwise, you risk stressing the fish with the abrupt water change.
• Turn the power off to the aquarium and clean your hands of any contaminants (including soap) that could harm the fish.

• Read More Aquarium Articles

Our 180g reef tank.

My Fav Angel

75 lbs. live sand, 70 lbs Marshall Island live rock. Right now there is two volitan lions( one red and one black), one polka dot grouper, one soap fish(Grouper) and one Koran angle fish. filter is emperor 400

Pic2

55 Gallon Community Planted Tank, Malaysian Driftwood, CO2, Angelfish, Neon Tetra, Sword tails, Platties, Mollies, Gouramis, Many Plants. LifeGlo2 6700K 40W. Millennium 3000 Filter. Taken 1/3/2009