New hobbyist with a few general questions (it's a long one)

by **Natural_mama4** » Thu May 12, 2011 12:35 am

So I got a test for the water (before reading yasher's post) and got one at wal-mart because I was already there. It's by Jungle and states that it's a complete all-in-one quick dip test, so I believed it was in fact complete. When I got home and opened it I realized it tests nitrate, nitrite, hardness, alkalinity, and ph, but not ammonia. It seems from different things I've read that ammonia is a pretty important thing to test for. Will I be able to keep the water healthy for the fish with just this test or do I need an ammonia test too? If the nitrate and nitrite levels are ok, does that mean ammonia levels are ok as well?

by **natalie265** » Thu May 12, 2011 1:10 am

At this point, you need an ammonia test. Once your tank is fully established, you can probably do without that one. I have both liquid and test strips, and i prefer the test strips. People claim the liquid are more accurate, but my test strips always match my liquid (I use mardel), except for nitrate, which my TEST STRIPS actually pick up trace amounts of that the liquid kit (API) misses.

by **Alasse** » Thu May 12, 2011 2:14 am

Test strips are handy....they are quick and dont require the mucking around the liquid do. I personally use liquid, but am going to get some strips for times when i want quick results

by **dream2reef** » Thu May 12, 2011 3:54 am

Test for happiness too they have those strips. I think, like humans that fish stomachs can grow. I overfeed all the time on purpose and I have a few fish I can count them eat at least five feeders 2-3 inches long then eat some floaty balls and some sinky balls. I just love this hobby. His name is Rambo and I'm still not sure if he 's the father of 57 babies.

by **Natural_mama4** » Mon May 16, 2011 1:25 am

Ok, so now both fish are dead. Sucks explaining it to two 3 yr olds, but I guess that's part of it. So now what do I do? I'm gonna get more fish but obviously wait til tank is ready. I just wish I had gotten better start up info from the pet store sales clerks.

Do I still need to do water changes? Or just leave it be checking levels every couple of days? Should I replace all water and lightly rinse gravel and decorations, or no? Is my set up to blame? Or just the fact that I started out all wrong? I have a carbon filter, a bubble bar that goes most of the way across the back of the tank, 2 air stones (? Husband got these, I guess that's what they're called? Very porous rocks) and 5 fake plants, with gravel bottom. the filter tube stick goes down right beside the bubble bar. Will this effect the filtration?

Please excuse my terminology on things, I'm new to all this! And again, thanks for everyone's help!

by **Alasse** » Mon May 16, 2011 4:53 am

What are the levels in the tank? Ammonia, NitrAte & NitrIte?

If i can get those i can give you an idea of wether to pull the tank down or not. There maybe enough gunk in the gravel to give off ammonia to kick the cycle along. Either way you are going to have to 'feed' the tank through the cycle process. You will not need to do water changes if there are no fish in the tank.

10gal is too small for goldfish, they are extremely messy fish and foul the water rather quickly. White cloud minnows would suit for cold water fish (very active little fish)

Can you afford a heater? If so a betta would suit the tank nicely.

The filter intake should not be right where the bubbles are, it will effect the filters ability to pull water up the intake. If you can move it away would be better.

The carbon in all likelyhood will be depleted now, if you can just replace the carbon in the filter would be good, if it is an all in one type replacement cartridge i'd leave it until we get the tank through the cycle process.

by **natalie265** » Mon May 16, 2011 6:53 pm

You need to continue cycling your tank. Now that you don't have any fish, you may proceed one of two ways: a fishless cycle or a fish-in cycle. The benefit of a fishless cycle is that you won't kill any more fish during this process. But, you still need a source of ammonia to feed your bacteria colony. You can get pure ammonia from most home improvement type stores as it is sometimes used as a cleaning agent. Just make sure there is nothing else added--it should be straight ammonia. OR you can get a couple more hardy fish and continue what you were doing. Either way, you will need to continue monitoring your water and doing changes as needed.

Is your filter the hang-on-back type? Is there also a sponge or is there just a bag of carbon?

And as Tekneb suggested earlier, if you can get some used filter media from a friend who has an established tank, it will help speed up the cycling process greatly!

by **Natural_mama4** » Mon May 16, 2011 11:07 pm

I just tested and the ammonia was zero, it was a paler yellow than on the card but I followed directions. the nitrite is at about 5 and nitrate is a darker cream than 0 but not quite pink. The first fish died a couple days ago and really I was surprised it was that one. It looked fine, good color & swimming like normal. Then yesterday I found the 2nd. It had looked sickly for awhile, swimming awkwardly, pale color. It had white specks on it that I hadn't noticed before that looked more fluffy & cottony than solid & salt-like. So I believe t was not ick based on what I've read, but not positive. I don't know if/how this white stuff will affect the water.

My filter is a hang on the edge type with a bag of carbon and also a black bio foam filter. I've taken part of my bubble bar out (it came in 2 pieces) so it's about 6 in long or so. And I don't have a heater. Sales person said it wasn't really necessary with the variatus platies as they can tolerate a wide temp range. So if I stay with this type of fish do I need a heater?

Also with the carbon filter, I've read some say it's only necessary to change once it starts effecting water flow. What are thoughts on this?

by **Alasse** » Tue May 17, 2011 2:05 am

The tank is still cycling then, i personally would add 1 platy and use it to cycle the tank.

I would class platys as tropical and requiring a heater, unless you live where the temp in the tank wont drop below 24C. Being at the cooler temp may have made them more susceptable to disease.

I would replace the carbon part of the filter, dont touch the sponge though.

by **tekneb** » Tue May 17, 2011 2:24 am

Alasse is correct, you've moved into the second part of your tanks cycle, where ammonia has been converted into nitrItes, which will feed another bacteria that turns the nitIites into nitrAtes, which are far less harmful.

24C is about 80F in case you live over here in the land of the free :P

You really only need to change your carbon bag once its literally falling apart. The bacteria that grows on the bag itself does much more good then the carbon it contains. Your sponge (the black bio-foam, as you called it) will certainly grow more bacteria, so you can replace the carbon bag if you'd like, but the carbon bag can grow a pretty healthy bacteria colony as well. One of the filters on my tank is a hang on back type like yours, and when the bag starts blocking the flow I usually take it out and rinse it off using water I just took out from a water change.

New hobbyist with a few general questions (it's a long one)

23 posts • Page 2 of 3

New hobbyist with a few general questions (it's a long one)

23 posts • Page 2 of 3