Filterless Ecosystem

60 posts • Page 3 of 6

Discuss all topics related to freshwater and planted tanks.


Holidays
 
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 2:32 pm

by Holidays

can't keep too many fish though in order to keep the nitrate low. and the gravel and the pump acts like filtration.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

as long as the nitrate stays 40 & below and there are live plants, the nitrate level is not toxic...anything over 40 begins to stress the fish, above 80 it becomes toxic or lethal

the way I "filter" the tank is with all the snails I have (over 100)..and via the snails anus, they give off micro organisms that the fish will feed off of that way I have to feed very little which also helps to keep the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate within normal range

but thanks for the reply...not many will tread in this area because there is very little information on keeping a tank like this...like Alasse said, it's been done before but not enough that there are books out there that promote such a system


Alasse
 
Posts: 993
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 5:35 am
Location: QLD Australia

by Alasse

I'm pretty sure there are books on it. pleanty of information on it online too. Just do a search on Dutch Tanks.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/9/freshwater

thanks for the tip Alasse...I learned it on my own, but it is good to see there are people out there attempting to mimic nature as close to possible

again, very cool Alasse...thanks


Alasse
 
Posts: 993
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 5:35 am
Location: QLD Australia

by Alasse

Dutch tanks have been around forever, some are absolutely stunning


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

today's water tests:

Temperature: 82-82 (post water change 78-82)
Ammonia: 0.50 (post water change 0)
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 40 (post water change 30)
PH: 8.1 (post water change 8.1)

well over one month, the tank is doing exceptionally well

(((I should have bet you on that 13 days mzhantsche lol)))


natalie265
Site Admin
 
Posts: 746
Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2008 9:48 pm

by natalie265

Diana Walstad is famous for creating low tech, self-maintaining planted fish tanks. Some of her tanks are very nice. She wrote a book called, Ecology of the planted aquarium.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

http://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-A ... 0967377307

very cool book Natalie, thanks much (I ordered it)


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

the following was to a thread created by RaeRae84 in the General Discussion section:

I have moved twice with the 55 gallon tank and funny thing, I will be moving again in the coming week (((smiles))).

You need to gather all your fish in a 20 or 10 gallon tank (depends on how many fish you have and how well they get along in close quarters).

Next, turn everything off. Empty the tank of the water. If you have live plants, take all the plants out of the gravel, be careful, do it slowly as not to damage the roots, and place the plants in wet newspapers or preferably in a bucket of water (key is to keep the plants continuously wet). If you have snails, get the big ones out you can leave the very small ones. Break it all down except for about 1/2 to 1 inch of gravel.

Takes two people to move a large tank, possibly more, dependent on the tank. Never ever lift the tank with water in it. Actually, the only thing in the tank should be gravel with the waterline below the gravel.

Move everything to your new place.

At the new place, refill the tank with new water about halfway. Replant the plants as if you just bought them. Rearrange the tank with whatever decorations you have.

Fill the tank back up, then place the heater in the tank, wait a few minutes then turn it on. Let the temperature rise to the usual temperature (usually around a good 78 unless you have goldfish, then colder). Put all the filtration back into the tank. Put the lighting and aeration into the tank.

Let the tank sit for about 1 hour or until the water temperature gets to be normal and everything else is working properly.

Use liquid test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph on the tap water so you know what the new place's water parameters are. Once it appears like all is within normal range, then place all the fish back in. Adjust accordingly.

Don't be surprised if you lose a couple fish and some yellowing or dying back of live plants. It's a time for adjustment for the fish are extremely stressed and even the live plants are "stressed".

My advice is, do not feed for 2 days. Fast the fish. It will not hurt them. It will help clean out their digestive systems too. Observe the fish and plants. On the 3rd day, test the water. IF all is within normal range, then you can feed sparingly.

After one week the fish will have set up all their territorial spaces and you can consider the tank back to normal unless your water testing tells you differently. Then as an experienced fish-keeper, you should know what to do (water change, cut back or fast the fish on food, may need to add Prime (conditions the water).

Considering you plan to have a saltwater tank you will need to keep the live rock wet as well and of course test for salinity (the tap water and then in time the tank water).

Saltwater and freshwater tank breakdown on a move is basically the same. Only difference, the fish you may lose in a saltwater are usually much more expensive.

Any questions, tell me/us about it. Let us know how it goes.

Well since I posted a reply to RaeRae84's thread I have since moved to a new house, after having set up the tank, the water tests:

Temperature: 80-84
Ammonia: 0.25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0.25
PH: 8.0

Again, the tank is without filters, heater and/or lighting (will have a new pic soon). Only 2 flexible bubbler wands with 1 Fusion 600 air pump. Live plants, rocks (slate, sandstone, pebble rock), malaysian& bogwood, and I have added white sand to part of the tank (for the loaches).

The tank is partially in the south window for natural sunlight.

So far, the fish, frogs and snails have survived the move. Figure about 2 weeks will tell how the living inhabitants and live plants have survived the move.

Will keep all updated.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

9 weeks of a filterless, no overhead lighting aquarium...I was forced to place the heater back into the tank for the temperatures were getting too low (oh geez, could it be it's winter? lol) and only other thing in the tank are the two flexible bubble wands with hosing connected to one air pump.

latest results as of 1/09/2011:

temperature: 82-84 (post water change: 78-80)
ammonia: 0.50 (post water change: 0)
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 35 (post water change: 20)

all this after a house move about 2 weeks ago...had enough good bacteria left in the moistened gravel/pebbles to prevent cycling of the tank

current fish:

1 red-tail shark
1 yellow platy
4 dwarf chain loaches
4 silver tip tetras
3 scissortail tetras
4 black kuhli loaches
6 harlequin rasboras
6 cherry barbs
6 bloodfin tetras
8 zebra danios
12 cardinal tetras
12 red platy

will keep the forum up to date every so often

Filterless Ecosystem

60 posts • Page 3 of 6

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