Rate my equipment

13 posts • Page 1 of 2

Discuss all topics related to freshwater and planted tanks.


Reavicus
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:00 pm

Rate my equipment

by Reavicus

O.k. so I have been doing this for a few years now and have not given up on the tank. However I realized that all the equipment that I use was basically recommended when I bought my first large tank at the LFS. So am I using the right equpiment?

72 gallon bowed front tank.
Cascade 1200 external canister filter (rated for 150 gallons)
2 Powerhead 402.
The factory lighting.


bennyphan
 
Posts: 75
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:38 am

by bennyphan

It really depends on what type of tank you are planning on running and how many fish, live plants, etc. Factory light I would probably want to change, I wold recommend getting a better light that has dual bulbs. And depending on the bulb depends on if you plan to have live plant in your tank. But everything looks good so far.


Reavicus
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:00 pm

by Reavicus

Its not a new tank. But kind of restarting, not from scratch. Live plants, about six, are in the tank. Community non aggresive fish. (tetra, gourami, pleco, frogs, danio, etc).
I had good luck with the live plants, until I was battling an algae problem (hence the start over). Guy at LFS recommeded 'Algae Destroyer'. Said it wouldn't harm the live plants. They all died. Algae lived. Algae gone now.


Peterkarig3210
 
Posts: 1980
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am

by Peterkarig3210

Cemicals for algae is a bad way to go. Best to use stronger lights and do water changes to keep nitrates down.

A water test kit that tests ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH, is a good thing to have.

Also, tanks as a kit usually/never come with enough light to grow plants.

There are low light varieties that are pretty easy to grow with a moderate amount of light, but many varieties will need special (expensive) lighting.

I use hardware store florescents for my low light planted tanks.


Reavicus
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:00 pm

by Reavicus

Thanks, I do use the test kits.
I change 25 gallons a month in a 72 gallon tank.


Reavicus
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:00 pm

by Reavicus

So I could keep the light fixture, just improve the bulb?


Peterkarig3210
 
Posts: 1980
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am

by Peterkarig3210

You probably need to get a higher wattage fixture depending on your needs.

Water changes need to be done in response to nitrate levels. 40ppm is the very highest that most fish can tollerate, but this is way too much for a healthy tank.

I like 0-10ppm before I do water changes, but up to 20 is usually considdered OK.

Some people say that too much light will grow algae, but I believe it's mainly too much nitrates that causes algae growth (from my experience with years of growing planted tanks.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

Reavicus: I change 25 gallons a month in a 72 gallon tank.

25 gallons a month is way too low. At 25 gallons a month, this is broken down to about 8% water change a week which is too small a change.

You need to release fromt he water column nitrates, only way to do this is by water change. You need to do 25 gallons a week or 12 gallons twice a week.
Once the water changing gets routine, it's very easy to manage the tank.

You must find a balance or else you will find algae in your tank. And unless you like to grow algae naturally in your tank - I do - then you best find that balance or else you will be "starting over" repeatedly.

Chemicals are a big no. My best advice to anyone on this web site or planet earth, never ever listen and take for granted that a salesperson knows what he or she is advising. 9 out of 10 times, that salesperson is wrong. You want to listen to an experienced fishkeeper.

This is my advice to any present or future fishkeeper, anytime you purchase something from a fish store, you must, again, I say, you must ask that salesperson if he or she owns a fish tank and how long has he or she owned the tank...if that person says well I only own dogs or cats or parakeets or snakes, well I had a fish tank years ago, etc etc...you have two choices, find answers to questions via experienced fishkeepers like from this web site or in real life or get your "fin" out of that store unless you buy on blind faith and learn from there.

Anyway, up your water change quantity; purchase better lighting; purchase more live plants as to outcompete the algae for nutrients, and observe.

Anymore help, we're here awaiting the question.


Reavicus
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:00 pm

by Reavicus

Ok. so Ive been running the tank since 07. this was my first algae, problem. And it turns out the cause was that I moved and my new water comes out of the tap at almost 10ppm in nitrates. Switched to Prime. Thanks for the help but can anyone help me out on the ORIGINAL question and let the algae thing go? I think Ive learned and got it under control. Since I have started over, should I consider replacing any of the equipment before I get to far this time?

And I seem to know a lot of people who only change water in thier tanks 2-3 times A YEAR. And they seem to do fine.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

well 2-3 times a year, they have very lucky tanks...reminds me of a swamp (possibly their fish live in brackish water)...but rivers, oceans, seas, etc are constantly in movement, therefore a water change

filtration double the tank's gallons is okay...I would always go at least 10 times the gph. For instance, I have a 55 gallon tank, I have 550 gph filtration.

So replace the filtration system.

Factory lighting is always lame. You need to replace the bulbs.

Power heads are fine because if it agitates the surface, there will be plenty oxygen in the water column.

Prime is an excellent water conditioner.

Anymore questions or comments, I'll be happy to help.

Rate my equipment

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