ok, i will get rid of the 2 molly's. there's would not be a chance in hell i would give back my loach. they really are interesting fish. what do you think of adding 4 more platty's, a ( male ) betta and an african dwarf frog? or would the tank be overstocked.
Thanks for your help!
Molly laying on Gravel upside down
20 posts • Page 1 of 2
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Alasse - Posts: 993
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 5:35 am
- Location: QLD Australia
I personally would not be adding anything else to the tank until you figure out why you have fish dying.
Can you provide us with the tank stats? Ammonia, NitrItes & NitrAtes.
Khulis do better with mates by the way. Once your tank is stable i'd be inclined to get 3 more khulis. I definately would not be adding a male betta.
Can you provide us with the tank stats? Ammonia, NitrItes & NitrAtes.
Khulis do better with mates by the way. Once your tank is stable i'd be inclined to get 3 more khulis. I definately would not be adding a male betta.
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tekneb - Posts: 211
- Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 3:45 am
Alasse is dead on. Don't add anything until you know why your fish got fungus, and you wont know that unless you know your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Male Betta's vary greatly from fish to fish. Some are very even tempered, some will kill anything that moves. If you feel that the risk of all your other fish dying at the hands of a two dollar Betta is worth the reward of having a gorgeous Betta in your tank then by all means add him once the tank is stabilized. I personally wouldn't do it though.
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dream2reef - Posts: 521
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:19 am
Yea I figured he was still in cycling. Sounds like he just started up. Odd that the molly died though since they are the suggested fish to start any tank. At this point there are too many variables to start giving hypothesis' around w/o knowing at least the dangerous 2. Tekneb is right also about beta's. I did have one in with my community of neons, Rasboras, and rainbows. I introduced him by a mug. I sat him on top of my rock wall and watched him and the others. Not sure what made me think of this. I guess from watching them at the stores some will go at the other one some won't, as said. But, in my case, I got lucky everything went smooth. He loved it in there and he was awesome. He was a nosey guy though. I'm blabbing now. Get your test kit and come back here with some numbers. No one can really say anything w/o the very least that. Good luck
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dream2reef - Posts: 521
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:19 am
You can buy a netting for carbon that will go over your intake on your filter to stop the fish from being sucked up. I had to use it on fry before lol.
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toxicbiscuitj28 - Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:29 pm
i have 1 question about the testing kit. i already have one but can you tell me the difference between NITRATE NO3-, NO2-, and NO1- and the same between AMMONIA.
both AMMONIA bottles have the same numbers on them. they are both NH3/NH4, i just want to know if they are meant to be the same and what NITRATE bottle should i use.
I know how to use them and i know what they are for. thanks
both AMMONIA bottles have the same numbers on them. they are both NH3/NH4, i just want to know if they are meant to be the same and what NITRATE bottle should i use.
I know how to use them and i know what they are for. thanks
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toxicbiscuitj28 - Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:29 pm
Also, i have the medication for the fungus problem and it is being treated.
please answer question above. thanks
please answer question above. thanks
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tekneb - Posts: 211
- Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 3:45 am
There are two chemical compositions for ammonia, NH3 and NH4. Their are some differences on the chemistry level but for our purposes, NH3 and NH4 are both ammonia. Nitrate is NO3, Nitrite is NO2. Nitrite is the more dangerous of the two and the level in your tank should be 0, same as ammonia. Nitrate should be around 20ppm. I'm not quite sure what NO1 is, let me get back to you on that one.
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toxicbiscuitj28 - Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:29 pm
ok, checked everything, PH is perfect, NITRATE is perfect, but the AMMONIA is just turning out clear, it just looks exactly like water, no color, nothing. If the AMMONIA is not the cause i think the molly just died because there no salt in the water. I think the betta died from the fungul infection due to stress. i recently had 1 Severum, 1 Pakistani loach and the betta. The Severum kept chasing him and i had to move the betta to a bowl. i moved him back in to the tank a few days later when i brought the Severum back and got my Community fish. The betta was chasing the fish this time so i moved him back to the bowl. I eventually put the betta back in and they all seemed fine ( until the betta died ). thanks and please reply.
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Alasse - Posts: 993
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 5:35 am
- Location: QLD Australia
Perfect is not the numbers i require...if you cannot provide the correct information, i'm sorry then i cannot help you. I need the figures for Ammonia, nitItes and nitrAtes.
How old is your test kit? If the ammonia test is coming out clear then i would not be trusting any results from it anyway, sounds like it is past its used by date, or you havent done the test correctly
As for the molly died because it had no salt, rubbish, i have seen mollies kept successfully in non salted tanks. Yes they do better with salt added definately, but they can cope just as well in fresh if the tank is stable.
How old is your test kit? If the ammonia test is coming out clear then i would not be trusting any results from it anyway, sounds like it is past its used by date, or you havent done the test correctly
As for the molly died because it had no salt, rubbish, i have seen mollies kept successfully in non salted tanks. Yes they do better with salt added definately, but they can cope just as well in fresh if the tank is stable.