Ich, Ick, White Spot Disease (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
Symptoms: Salt-like specks on the body/fins. Excessive slime. Problems breathing (ich invades the gills), clamped fins, loss of appetite.
Ich, Ick, or White Spot Disease is the most common malady experienced in the home aquarium. Luckily, this disease is also easily cured if caught in time! Ich is actually a protozoa called Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. There are three phases to the life cycle of this protozoa. Normally, to the amateur aquarist, the life cycle is of no importance. However, since Ich is susceptible to treatment at only one stage of the life cycle, an awareness of the life cycle is important.
* Adult phase - it is embedded in the skin or gills of the fish, causing irritation (with the fish showing signs of irritation) and the appearance of small white nodules. As the parasite grows it feeds on red blood cells and skin cells. After a few days it bores itself out of the fish and falls to the bottom of the aquarium.
* Cyst phase - after falling to the bottom, the adult parasite forms into a cyst with rapid cell divisions occurring.
* Free swimming phase - after the cyst phase, about 1000 free swimming young swim upwards looking for a host. If a host is not found within 2 to 3 days, the parasite dies. Once a host is found the whole cycle begins anew.
These three phases take about 4 weeks at 70 º F but only 5 days at 80 º F. For this reason it is recommended that the aquarium water be raised to about 80 º for the duration of the treatment. If the fish can stand it, raise the temperature even higher up to 85 º.
The free swimming phase is the best time to treat with chemicals. Raising the aquarium temperature to 80 º F will greatly shorten the time for the free swimming phase to occur. The drug of choice is quinine hydrochloride at 30 mg per liter (1 in 30,000). Quinine sulphate can be used if the hydrochloride is not available. The water may cloud but this will disappear. By reducing the time (with raised temperature) of the phases, you should be able to attack the free swimming phase effectively.
Some aquarists like to use malachite green, but it tends to stain the plastic and silicone in the aquarium. Most commercial remedies contain malachite green and/or copper, which are both effective. ~~ animal-world.com
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/i ... htm#Fungus
best site for information on all ills and remedies
eating well is a very good sign without clamped fins is even better
my best advice is, give the fish one good week before you take any measures...if the fish(s) get worse, then raise the temperature add one teaspoon per gallon of aquarium salt
good site for converting temperatures:
so at 80 degrees it's 26.66 celsius
keep us posted on your tank, give us a rundown in a week from reading this response, okay?