Nitrate (NO-2) is 10+

14 posts • Page 2 of 2

Discuss all topics related to freshwater and planted tanks.


stingraysrule
 
Posts: 271
Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:37 pm

by stingraysrule

I just read your profile and saw the fish you have, but am not sure how many?
I see that you have some fake plants. IMO, I would get rid of them and get some real ones. The tank looks good, but it can look better with some real plants.
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Jonnyguy
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:25 pm

by Jonnyguy

I have roughly around 20 fish 4-5 of each kind. I need to update my profile. My blue grommies killed my black tetras and balloon mollys. Ya ive been reading up on planted tanks and thats gonna be my next step. If I have a well planted tank does that take care of the fish waste in the substrate? Also, I have that chocolate gray 1" Gravel for my substrate. Will i need something else as a substrate if im going to go planted tank.


stingraysrule
 
Posts: 271
Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:37 pm

by stingraysrule

Well..... it does not take care of the fish waste, and you do still have to do water changes, but
the fish waste that you do not get when you do water changes will break down and can be fertilizer for the plants. You can use the gravel that you have now in your tank.
I would get some low light plants like anacharis, anubias, java fern, water sprite, an onion plant........ anubias grow nicely, and look cool in a tank.
What size tank do you have?
While your tank is cycling, do weekly water changes. I would do 30%.
Get your tank established, and once your readings are good, you can do water changes 2X a month if you want. I do water changes every week but a lot of people do not. You will have to see what works best for you and your tank.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

stingray said plenty, so I will not repeat...weekly water changes is a must (20-25%, twice a week, that is, 12% one day and 12% another)

I never vacuum, there is a layer of natural mud that has formed below the gravel (sea pebble) for the live plant roots. If the gravel is less than 1/2" deep in any non-live plant area, no need to gravel.

some tanks cycle faster than others, some are slow...usually cycling is 4-6 weeks...you're at one month...that nitrite reading will drop to 0 (if it hasn't already by the time I post this response to the thread); nitrate can stay at around 25-35 ppm (lower the better, if you have live plants, 25-35 ppm is perfect for the plants can use the phosphate)

as far as test strips...trash them. Get liquid tests only. More accurate.

First, test the tap water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph (if possible, phosphate and oxygen). Once you get those tests, you will know exactly how much water conditioner, if any, you need to use for the tank during water change (water change is like the rivers, streams, etc constantly changing, get it?)

Because the tap water in my house is 0 for all tests, I use no water conditioner/dechlorinator. In the other house, ammonia tests at 4.2, so I used Prime.

So the best dechlorinator you should use is Prime (aquasafe and ACE ammonia remover, all crap). A little Prime will go a long way if used properly.

After cycling, test the water once a week. After 6 months, once every 2 weeks, after 1 year (your tank should be established by then), test once a month, and after 2 years no need to test unless a problem arises.

NOTE: if a fish dies, you see fish hanging around the filter water outlets, at the water surface, are hanging around at the bottom or just are not acting normally (for every fish has a basic way of life), then you need to immediately do a water test to make sure it's not due to the water column. If the test shows trouble, water change 50%. If the water test is within normal, then you know it is only that one or whatever fish which is sick and you can remove it, put it down (use a tablespoon of clove oil to euthanize it in a small dish of water) or let it die in the main tank (though you must watch it, for you do not want to lose it in the plants, under a rock, etc for the decay then will wreck havoc with the water column).

Anyway I do not want to feed you too much information. Just do this as soon as you get the liquid tests:

1. test the tap water
2. water change 20-25% per week
3. test the tank water every week unless sign of trouble (then do more)
4. observe
5. and most of all, enjoy!

Nitrate (NO-2) is 10+

14 posts • Page 2 of 2

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