wanted to say thanks to everyone that will be helping me and for those who attemp. thanks :]
well i was givin a fish tank a 175g tank to be exact.
ok so far i hook up the filter let it ran for about going on a week so far.
i added water condition, water heater (80 degrees), and some air tubes.
what else do i need to prep. my tank ready for fish?
bio filter? truth be told thats all i know. i dont know where to begin.
i havnt even added aquarium sand yet.
can someone help me please.
HELP! HELP!
8 posts
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texassoljaz - Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:07 am
oh i have 2 canister filters. one with a sponge and the other with stones. i believe its carbon rocks or some sort
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
The filter you have are "bio filters". Bacteria will colonise the different media in the filter and serve as decomposters of fish waste. When cleaning these it's a good idea to clean them at different times so there is allways a good colony alive turning ammonia to nitrites, and another kind turning nitrites to nitrates
Nitrates are basicly fertiliser, and not that bad for the fish until it reaches a hig enough level.
It's important to change some of the water at regular intervals to keep the nitrates from getting too high. most people (I think) think that every 2 weeks is good to change 1/3rd of the water. "topping off" from evaporation doesn't count.
It depends on how many fish you have as to how fast nitrates build up, but test kits are availiable.
In the begining it's a good idea to add fish very slowely because before there is fish poop there are no bacteria. As waste levels rise bacteria develop on there own, but it's important for ammonia or nitrites levels to not spike too high or it will kill your fish.
I'm tired. Hope I gave you some info you didn't already know. PK
Nitrates are basicly fertiliser, and not that bad for the fish until it reaches a hig enough level.
It's important to change some of the water at regular intervals to keep the nitrates from getting too high. most people (I think) think that every 2 weeks is good to change 1/3rd of the water. "topping off" from evaporation doesn't count.
It depends on how many fish you have as to how fast nitrates build up, but test kits are availiable.
In the begining it's a good idea to add fish very slowely because before there is fish poop there are no bacteria. As waste levels rise bacteria develop on there own, but it's important for ammonia or nitrites levels to not spike too high or it will kill your fish.
I'm tired. Hope I gave you some info you didn't already know. PK
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texassoljaz - Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:07 am
thanks PK. thank for the info very useful info. could you/anyone recommend a good kit/kits i will be needing to test my water for bad chem. to my fish. thanks.
if i do a 1/3 of water change i do have to add water condition to it yes? and it wont hurt my fish?
if i do a 1/3 of water change i do have to add water condition to it yes? and it wont hurt my fish?
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texassoljaz - Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:07 am
i have a bubble wall airstone. i was wondering could i put sand on it or just little pebbles/stones?
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GiantDogg - Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:24 pm
To answer your questions: Yes, you must add a conditioner (I and most use Prime) to water changes and yes, you can put sand over an airstone.
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Okiimiru - Posts: 275
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:19 pm
If you didn't add a source of ammonia to increase your nitrosomonas and nitrospira bacteria colony, then the colony is not large enough in population to be able to handle the volume of ammonia waste that you'll have if you add fish. The bacteria need food to reproduce. Add fish flakes every day like you were feeding fish, and test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.
Please read this article
http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_5 ... rticle.htm
Please read this article
http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_5 ... rticle.htm
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
First things first, you have a very large tank (this is great). Next you will need at least 1,750 gph filter(s) in the tank, next you will need lighting (depending on if you choose to have real or fake plants), next you will need a stick temperature gauge, a heater for a 175 gal tank, probably will need two or three heaters, depending on where you live (hot or cold region), with each being about 400 watt a piece (probably 2 400 watt heaters will do), next you may want to get a water flow pump so the tank is well oxygenated from one end to the next (water surface agitation equals oxygen that your fish will require), next you will need a hood dependent upon the fish you have and/or the lighting you get, and after all that....
Then you must add fish (unless you go the fishless cycle). Two fish, two hardy fish, like Cherry Barbs or Zebra Danios. The fish will produce poop or ammonia which will begin the cycling process (ammonia to nitrite to nitrate conversion). You will need test kits, preferably liquid test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, hardness and iron (if you plan to keep live plants).
For a 175 gallon tank, it will probably cost you about a good $300-$400 to get up and running.
After about a few weeks, your testing (one or twice a week or more depending upon how the tank cycles) will show the cycling process. After the ammonia and nitrite go to 0 and nitrates hold at between 10 to 50 (never ever go over 50), then you have a cycled tank. In about 6 months to a year's time (sometimes longer, but very rarely), you will have an established tank.
If you need further help I and others are here to help you
Happy Fishing!
Then you must add fish (unless you go the fishless cycle). Two fish, two hardy fish, like Cherry Barbs or Zebra Danios. The fish will produce poop or ammonia which will begin the cycling process (ammonia to nitrite to nitrate conversion). You will need test kits, preferably liquid test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, hardness and iron (if you plan to keep live plants).
For a 175 gallon tank, it will probably cost you about a good $300-$400 to get up and running.
After about a few weeks, your testing (one or twice a week or more depending upon how the tank cycles) will show the cycling process. After the ammonia and nitrite go to 0 and nitrates hold at between 10 to 50 (never ever go over 50), then you have a cycled tank. In about 6 months to a year's time (sometimes longer, but very rarely), you will have an established tank.
If you need further help I and others are here to help you
Happy Fishing!