went away for 3 days on returning home to find the plants grown well but also brownish algae covering most of the plants and wood.i'm using easycarbo liqud co2. would not putting it in over the 3 days make this grow. my tank has only been going for 3 weeks.purchased three otos one died but the other 2 don't seam to be eating it.
any help apprieciate
thanks
duncan.
christmas algae
10 posts
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
Was that the only factor that changed when you were away?
Did an auto feeder feed your fish possibly raising nitrates?
What about the light?
About liquid co2. I don't know, but I wouldn't think that NOT using it would make algae grow.
Did you dump in an extra bunch of food before going away?
Did an auto feeder feed your fish possibly raising nitrates?
What about the light?
About liquid co2. I don't know, but I wouldn't think that NOT using it would make algae grow.
Did you dump in an extra bunch of food before going away?
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
As this tank has only been going for 3 weeks it may have only just started converting waste into nitrates, which is fertiliser for algae.
Maybe this has nothing to do with you going away, and that you need to get a nitrate test and both reduce the amount you feed and increace the amount you water change to keep nitrates low.
I'm assuming you know about the nitrogen cycle involving the benneficial bacteria in your filter and tank.
Maybe this has nothing to do with you going away, and that you need to get a nitrate test and both reduce the amount you feed and increace the amount you water change to keep nitrates low.
I'm assuming you know about the nitrogen cycle involving the benneficial bacteria in your filter and tank.
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GiantDogg - Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:24 pm
Well, to start I would say post your PH, Ammonia, Nitirite and Nitrate levels. I persnally don't like test strips and prefer a formal water test (Your LFS may be able to test your water if you don't want to pay for a kit). Secondly, I would hope you didn't dump a bunch of food to feed 2 otto's (you mentioned that 1 passed). DON'T do a water change as your tank is still (most likely) cycling and you need to stabilize the bio-filtration process. Good luck!
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
GiantDogg. I was under the impression that you don't lose benneficial bacteria by doing water changes because the bacteria are mostly attatched to surfaces, in the filter, on plants, etc.
I agree about getting all 4 tests though for a new tank. I usually only use the pH and the nitrate tests because I know I have a stable cycle and allways have zero nitrite and ammonia.
I agree about getting all 4 tests though for a new tank. I usually only use the pH and the nitrate tests because I know I have a stable cycle and allways have zero nitrite and ammonia.
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natalie265 - Site Admin
- Posts: 746
- Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2008 9:48 pm
Wait a minute. I agree w/PK. If your tank is cycling you SHOULD do a water change. In fact, you should do a big water change and frequent water changes thereafter until your bacteria colony is built up to the point that it can handle some of the clean up job for you.
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GiantDogg - Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:24 pm
Normally, you would both be correct. The reason I said "Don't" do a water change is the fact he mentioned a cycle with fish (he is not doing a fishless cycle) so that it will settle quicker. Only when the Nitrate level gets over 20 PPM. If he was doing a fishless cycle then the water change as Natalie mentioned. Cycles with fish are different because of the much lower Ammonia levels provided the bacteria. Basically, a water change "starves" the bacteria when using fish by removing Ammonia, Nitrites as a food source for the bacteria colony.
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
I guess the best way to resolve this issue is for the author to go and get pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates checked.
Then we will have a better idea of what's going on.
If he has an ammonia or nitrite spike that's very large it could kill more fish.
I would recomend a water change if ammonia or nitrite reach toxic levels.
Then we will have a better idea of what's going on.
If he has an ammonia or nitrite spike that's very large it could kill more fish.
I would recomend a water change if ammonia or nitrite reach toxic levels.
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spunk - Posts: 8
- Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:40 pm
I have done nitrate and nitite tests and armonia they are all reading o or there abouts in the second week the nitrate and nitrite went well high and then it came down to what it is now i've been doing a 10 ltr water change every 7 days tank is 72 ltr the light comes on for 12 hours a day worked out that i have actually had tank for 4 weeks today 1 week fishless then got 6 white cloud mountian minnows had them for 2 weeks then added the 3 otos as i said one died and ive had them a week tomorrow.as well as the algae i mentioned i have green algae much like the sfuff you get in pond in the summer long green stringy stuff.
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GiantDogg - Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:24 pm
What is your water temperature? It sounds like your tank is cycled if you had your spike and it settled. Your temp could be too high. Try to keep the temp in the 75-78 degree range.