I havent read anything addressing the open wounds and white philm on the fish. Granted I agree about the goldfish dieing part that may most likely be what happened. Having the tank for a year or more leaves more possibilities as well. wouldnt they show signs before death? they arent going to instantly outgrow a colony unless its been fouled.
I don't have any goldfish my self since that racoon took the one i had in my fountain outback. What i know about them is that they are hearty yet prone to disease aswell. more so when you put them in tropical fish tanks cuz of the temporature.
Tank health help requested
23 posts • Page 2 of 3
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bennyphan - Posts: 75
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:38 am
Yeah totally agree with the GURU PK. All that cloudiness usually means you are over feeding, so extra food and the feces will raise up the nitrate level. I learned it the hard way myself. I only feed my fish every other day, once a day, usually in the morning. And change 20% of my water every week, 30% if I skipped a week. The result clear water, and active fish. I also have two 60 gal Top Fin Filters running in my 55gal tank.
I strongly believe that adding chemical to eliminate the nitrate or nitrite, etc is only a temporary solution. It will come back sooner then you think.
I strongly believe that adding chemical to eliminate the nitrate or nitrite, etc is only a temporary solution. It will come back sooner then you think.
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bennyphan - Posts: 75
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:38 am
Oh and make sure to test your tank weekly for nitrate levels. The highest your nitrate level should be is 40, anything above that is consider unhealthy and deadly to your fish.
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bruce2 - Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2009 1:10 am
Hi winged62,
Other then all were suggested above, I believe the problem might be caused by the chemicals you used including treatments. Also, some charcoal may cause this problem. The cotton stuff floating around is the protective coating came off the fish. That is also the reason the red wounds appeared under the fins that brush on the body while swimming. You may also notice red streaks on the body of the white fish.
Now you can remove all the treatments and charcoal and replace at least 50 percent of water. You might save a bucket of the tank water just in case I am wrong. Make sure the new water has been set for over night. Add stress coat and aquarium salt according to the instruction on the container. If any of the fish is in really bad shape, it may need immediate attention. Put it alone in a bucket of fresh water then again, add stress coat and aquarium salt with treatment dosage in quantity shown on the container.
If your fish seem swimming around in relive and the red or bloody streaks fading away that means they are going to be ok. soars would heal up in a couple of days.
If I am wrong, put the bucket of tank water you saved up back into the tank and start from there.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Bruce
Other then all were suggested above, I believe the problem might be caused by the chemicals you used including treatments. Also, some charcoal may cause this problem. The cotton stuff floating around is the protective coating came off the fish. That is also the reason the red wounds appeared under the fins that brush on the body while swimming. You may also notice red streaks on the body of the white fish.
Now you can remove all the treatments and charcoal and replace at least 50 percent of water. You might save a bucket of the tank water just in case I am wrong. Make sure the new water has been set for over night. Add stress coat and aquarium salt according to the instruction on the container. If any of the fish is in really bad shape, it may need immediate attention. Put it alone in a bucket of fresh water then again, add stress coat and aquarium salt with treatment dosage in quantity shown on the container.
If your fish seem swimming around in relive and the red or bloody streaks fading away that means they are going to be ok. soars would heal up in a couple of days.
If I am wrong, put the bucket of tank water you saved up back into the tank and start from there.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Bruce
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
I agree with peter, never bad to have too much filtration - the 55 gallon tank I have has 2 Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheel 350, that is, 700 GPH with two inserts in each filter, making a total of 4 insets plus in each compartment there are 10 bio balls, making 40 bio balls so more good bacteria accumulates.
Fishkeeping is about two things: chemistry & math. To achieve a balance or an ecosystem is the goal. But first the chemistry and the math must be right. If you take one chemical out of the picture, it offsets the math, thereby, you have problems. Again, I agree with peter, probably or mathematically speaking, the bacteria was over-whelmed. And by the way, 25% water change every 2 weeks is way too low. You should be doing 25% water change each week or about 7 gallons each week.
To add chemicals is a no no. You are simply giving your money away to manufacturers. All you need is really one type of chemical on each water change, I use Prime, it is a highly concentrated chlorine, chloramine, ammonia remover, it detoxifies nitrite and nitrate and provides slime coat. Also you should test your water each week for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels...I do this every Sunday, that way, if I see any of either one of those chemicals fluctuating too much, I know that if I do not do a 50% water change, cut down on the food and not pay closer attention to any odd type of behavior, I will only be asking for trouble.
Now of course, sometimes, there may be chemicals in the air that are drawn into the aquarium, and unless the filtration system gets to it first, the fish may breathe it in via their gills and troubles begin (but this scenerio is rare).
So my best advice on this matter, to you and all others, once a week test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph; do a 25% water change each week; get more filtration (put in another filter, to the point that the water is cycled 10 times at least, that is, 290 gph for the 29 gallon tank); and keep observing for any odd behavior.
Hope this helps.............Happy Fishing
Fishkeeping is about two things: chemistry & math. To achieve a balance or an ecosystem is the goal. But first the chemistry and the math must be right. If you take one chemical out of the picture, it offsets the math, thereby, you have problems. Again, I agree with peter, probably or mathematically speaking, the bacteria was over-whelmed. And by the way, 25% water change every 2 weeks is way too low. You should be doing 25% water change each week or about 7 gallons each week.
To add chemicals is a no no. You are simply giving your money away to manufacturers. All you need is really one type of chemical on each water change, I use Prime, it is a highly concentrated chlorine, chloramine, ammonia remover, it detoxifies nitrite and nitrate and provides slime coat. Also you should test your water each week for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels...I do this every Sunday, that way, if I see any of either one of those chemicals fluctuating too much, I know that if I do not do a 50% water change, cut down on the food and not pay closer attention to any odd type of behavior, I will only be asking for trouble.
Now of course, sometimes, there may be chemicals in the air that are drawn into the aquarium, and unless the filtration system gets to it first, the fish may breathe it in via their gills and troubles begin (but this scenerio is rare).
So my best advice on this matter, to you and all others, once a week test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph; do a 25% water change each week; get more filtration (put in another filter, to the point that the water is cycled 10 times at least, that is, 290 gph for the 29 gallon tank); and keep observing for any odd behavior.
Hope this helps.............Happy Fishing
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Peterkarig3210 - Posts: 1980
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:04 am
That was a great explanation Yasher.
You don't need to give me such props guys. I am allways learning new things and have problems with my tanks all the time. I've just had a lot of time and sucess with low light planted tanks.
I have one tank that has co2 and lot's of light and it's always needing to be fussed with.
I have cayano-bacteria that needs sucking up, no matter how low my nitrates are, and it's only in the last few months that I've been able to keep a large school of Cardinal tetras from not slowely dieing off.
I think it's just that It's just a commentary on my life that I spend so much time on this site. Many others here know at least as much and more than I do about fresh water tanks.
And.....I don't have nearly enough experience it takes to grow a salt water reef tank..........or the money. PK
You don't need to give me such props guys. I am allways learning new things and have problems with my tanks all the time. I've just had a lot of time and sucess with low light planted tanks.
I have one tank that has co2 and lot's of light and it's always needing to be fussed with.
I have cayano-bacteria that needs sucking up, no matter how low my nitrates are, and it's only in the last few months that I've been able to keep a large school of Cardinal tetras from not slowely dieing off.
I think it's just that It's just a commentary on my life that I spend so much time on this site. Many others here know at least as much and more than I do about fresh water tanks.
And.....I don't have nearly enough experience it takes to grow a salt water reef tank..........or the money. PK
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bruce2 - Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2009 1:10 am
I've just jointed this board try to help out as I accidentally saw this thread; and found here good readings. Thanks.
I agree with you about not adding chemicals which is pretty much of a common sense to the experienced. I have even let along pH and nitrates level testing for a while since I can look at the fish and the tank and tell if it needs attention.
Remember when I was a little kid at the Far East without anything but experiment with rain water, tap water, water from the lake or river and of course the best is from a particular well near by.
My point is that it is best to ask before adding stuffs from the shelf for those who ran out of ideas.
A question to yasherkoach, have you ever tried Stress Coat and how is it compare with Prime? Stress Coat seems pretty convenient which also costs 1/3 as much per gal. Will get some Prime next time but like to hear your opinion. Thanks.
Happy Holidays!
Bruce
I agree with you about not adding chemicals which is pretty much of a common sense to the experienced. I have even let along pH and nitrates level testing for a while since I can look at the fish and the tank and tell if it needs attention.
Remember when I was a little kid at the Far East without anything but experiment with rain water, tap water, water from the lake or river and of course the best is from a particular well near by.
My point is that it is best to ask before adding stuffs from the shelf for those who ran out of ideas.
A question to yasherkoach, have you ever tried Stress Coat and how is it compare with Prime? Stress Coat seems pretty convenient which also costs 1/3 as much per gal. Will get some Prime next time but like to hear your opinion. Thanks.
Happy Holidays!
Bruce
