How to correctly remove nitrate and nitrate from a new tank?

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Discuss all topics related to freshwater and planted tanks.

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How to correctly remove nitrate and nitrate from a new tank?

by MonkeyChunks

My tank is at the last stage of the cycling process. The Nitrite is way up, and Nitrate is also pretty high. So the question is this. What percentage of water is best to replace? and how frequently? Like every day? every other day?

If I replace half of water I still have half of the Nitrite remain, so when should I replace it again to make it go down fast?

Once the levels are very low I plan to add some shrimps into the tank.

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by a1k8t31524

i did every 3 days

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Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:18 am

by miami754

I do enough water changes to keep my nitrite spike below 1 ppm during the entire cycle.

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by yasherkoach

cycling can take anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks (mine took about 2 weeks); some folks add natural bioload products to their takes, some believe the cycling process can take a few hours. I swear against this, I did use aqua chargers in my filters (I have 2 Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheels Filters), I still have the chargers in the filters along with the filter and activated charcoal (clearer water). The key ingredient to cycling is good bacteria. As long as you do water changes (25% to 30% per week or 15% twice a week, like I do, I do a 9 gallon water change on MOnday and another 9 gallon water change on Thursday - it is a 55 gallon tank), have a good filtration system and 2 to 10 zebra danios or Cherry Barbs (hardy must understand, in order to get good bacteria, you must have fish that poop. Poop makes cycling work. Not too much poop, this is the reason for a few fish, in time, you raise the poop or fish level, the good bacteria adjust, and wha-la, you will have an established tank, understand?) and good water test (liquid test kits are best, they are more accurate, takes a little more time than test strips, but accuracy is the key here), and you will get your nitrite levels down. Nitrite must be 0. Nitrate levels should be 20 ppm and under, it can rise to 40, but if it does, it is an indication you must change the water because it causes serious problems with fish gills. You will be amazed how the cycling process works. I'll give you my own experience as an example from my log book:

May 8, 2008 (2 zebra danios) ph (7.2), aklaline (80), Hardness (120), Nitrite (0), Nitrate (0), Ammonia (0), Temperature (80)

May 10, 2008 (added: 8 zebra danios) ph (7.2), alkaline (80), Hardness (250), Nitrite (0), Nitrate (0), Temperature (78-80)

These water parameters stayed the same like the above until:

May 23, 2008 all water parameters good except Nitrite (0.2), Nitrate (10)
May 26, 2008 Nitrite (0.5), Nitrate (10), Ammonia (.02)
May 28, 2008 Nitrite (1.0), Nitrate (10-15), Ammonia (.02)
May 29, 2008 Nitrite (2.0), Nitrate (18), Ammonia (.02)
May 30, 2008 Nitrite (1.2), Nitrate (20), Ammonia (0.3)
May 31, 2008 Nitrite (0.5), Nitrate (20), Ammonia (0)
June 1, 2008 only tested temperature (80-82)
June 2, 2008 Nitrite (0), Nitrate (20), Ammonia (0)
Since June 2, 2008 Nitrite (0), Ammonia (0), Nitrate (varies from 0 to 20, once at 40 quick water change, went back to 0)

That's how quick it takes. The Ammonia rises first, then plummets, then the NItrite also rises, plummets, then Nitrates (much less harmful) rise, dependent on water changing, anywhere from 0 to 40, preferably 20 or less.

Any questions, please do not hesitate.

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Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:13 am

by GreenMandarin6731

Hi im new to the site, but not tthat new to fish keeping experience... I hope i can help by letting you know of some natural experiments and observations I have monitored myself through my "new tank" setting up's. I know nitrates are bad and nitrites even worse and amonia worsest, you have to make sure that you're subtrates and medias are throughly prepared with serious rinsings, especially if your using older or "dried up" subtrates. i hate to tell you but if you have older or dried up subtrate the only way to rid of high nitrites and nitrates possibly amonias is to start all over again. if i am wrong, because i don't know what your set-up is like and was like as you set it up yourself... being careful not to add pollutants in your water by not washing hands, which can play a role in some N,N and A levels, if you have rocks and deco, were they all throughly rinsed?
Also you should avoid too many types of water conditioners and stick to a brand that works for you, avoid high costs, especially additives containing trace elements which say reproduces and provide elements from Origin of fish species especially when they have been Tank-Bred, as the natural origin may not play as an important of a for your fish to actually thrive off of their in-tank environment.

Through experience and knowing how pleasant fish can be to watch and have.. i will always try my hardest not to over fill any of my presetn and future tanks with too many fish and majorly decrease any common rule of thumb like 1" of freshwater fish to a gallon and/or 1" of saltwater fish per 10 gal. as even these common rules can be different for anyone, no one has and uses all the same equipments or/and has the same water sources on their fish and habitat and has all the same fish, aquariums are like people, no one has the same personality, so you have to learn what is happening has it happens and know what to do when things are going out of norm when sometimes it is normal. Like the nitrogen cycle when you first set-up your tank can become unstable but do not worry right away unless any of the things ive mentioned which you havent done or has happened to you.
I have a 75 gallon Cichlid tank. Had it started and been running for 6 months now with the exception of a little more then 1 month for nitrogen cycle to balance itself. it doesnt mean that you cant have fish right away or that you have to wait for it to get fish! the cycle does not interrupt at either end if you get fish right away just dont get too many to start off and wait for the cycle to balance with knowing as you perform NNA tests which amonia should never even be present from the start as soon as you fill tank, if u have amonia you have some serious researching to do from source of where this amonia is coming from, if amonia count is very low but still shows a bit dont worry about it it is part of the cycle. when i set up my tank i had to restart becasause my subtrate was filled with "dried" materials and elements from evaporation. i rinsed so many times and still was the source of my NNA problems... wheni found that out myself as i performed experiences and actual water testings in another controlled space of 10 gallons I found out what ws really happening and went from there.
i re-rinsed my subtrate and let it soak for a couple of days in buckets of water to break up any remaining detritus or "caked" on substances which i couldnt see, and re-rinsed before putting back into my tank with "new" water. after a few days of cycling with all aqua equipment it stabalized nicely at really good parameters, between that time i made tests to see how i could avoid and reduce nitrates with test tubes and tiny amounts of Kent's Nitrate Sponge media and Aquarium Freshwater Bio-Zyme 8 Grams which is also available as salt-water and both do the exact same thing so yo ucan use any of the 2 for either types of water!!! and works great for me! product #1 works effeciently at removing Nitrates before it enters the tank or it being present, fairly innexpensive when i bought it from ol' which changed to Drs. Foster's and Smith and are real reputable place to shop for all types of animals even has a wich i would love to purchase from, they seem to have a real nice live plant package and neat salt-water fish of many species, looks and colors.
To return on the subject! Product#1 works great for nitrate purposes only and Porduct#2 works great as well on cycling and keeping nitrates at low levels eventually removing it. And does the exact same thing that people say about introducing fish waste into your tank in order to get the nitrogen cycle going as bio-zymes will do just that as any starter fish. See like me i prefer having the whole thing cycled and balanced before i add fish to prevent any unexpectations and surprises later on then i will get fish and keep a REAL low bioload to preserve water quality i have 6 cichlids in a 75 ga. and their doing great i do not have a digicam to show you "wish i did" the tank includes many lava rocks, flat rocks, several plastic plants and a couple of pieces of drifwood. Believe it or not i am only using half UGF and HALF sand, with decent filtration, besides the "forgotten" over filled with detritus and bacteria sponge which i noticed from slowing down of one powerfilters, water tests just fine! Oh and i've noticed major fish growth in all my cichlids!
Oh and BTW if you have nitrates problems very little fish just starting-out as "cycling" i would so have a quaratine tank "incaseShappens" like on all my set-ups, re-rinse subtrate, and refill with new water and re-start, water changes just won't get rid of your Nitrate problems if its hiding in your subtrate!!!! and only time can reverse nitrate effects with thorough filtration low bioload and this may have been a coincidence but i tried filtrating without carbon at first just to play with water paremeters and btw this was after i re-rinsed all my subtrate giving it a few days to "re-cure" knowing there was no longer N,N,A within it and the water that comes from tap-water contained low amounts of Nitrates and re-adding the carbon cleared all NNA's so look into that, did'nt require much carbon either, only re-inserting the marineland 150 carbon cartridge and gave me good positive results
Anyway im going to sleep i really hope as messy as this reply was , that it helpful to you and others which may come along and read this thread.

How to correctly remove nitrate and nitrate from a new tank?

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