Neon Tetras dieing?

24 posts • Page 2 of 3

Discuss all topics related to freshwater and planted tanks.


toxicbiscuitj28
 
Posts: 51
Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:29 pm

by toxicbiscuitj28

I will lower the water and have the filter splash out over the surface like you said after i finish writing this, but is this necessary? i used the medication for the ich, is that not enough?, as for the Nitrite, I have tried shaking the tube and bottle but still nothing, I only bought this kit about a month ago.
About the kuhli loach...
I read did my research and it said that there PH is 6.5-6.9, 8.2 is a bit high.
What i really want to know is how many times do i use 'Proper PH'? and
'Aqua safe'? I have asked about the PH on several occasions and still no has
Answered. Thanks for the reply.


natalie265
Site Admin
 
Posts: 746
Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2008 9:48 pm

by natalie265

What people are telling you is to not use the proper ph EVER. A ph of 7.2 is not high enough to be concerned about. As for the "aqua safe", i'm not sure what that is. If it is a water conditioner/dechlorinator, then it needs to be used with every water change.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

7.2 is fine - I agree Natalie STOP USING ALL PH BUFFER CHEMICAL RIGHT NOW!

understand? (no offense)

to remove ich by higher temperature is the natural way...if you do add medication make sure you remove the charcoal from the filtration system or else the carbon will weaken the effect of any medication in the tank

a stable ph is the way to go

let us know how it goes


tekneb
 
Posts: 211
Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 3:45 am

by tekneb

Aquasafe makes 2 products if I remember correctly. A product to speed up the cycle (the fake bacteria stuff) and a dechlorinator. Products that speed up the cycle rarely work, so if that's what you are using then theirs no need to do so. And stresscoat (which you mentioned using in an earlier post) does the same job as aquasafe's dechlorinator, so if that is the aquasafe product you own there is no need to use it if you are already using stresscoat.

What yasher was trying to explain to you concerning lowering the water level was an alternative method to cure ich. If your ich is already gone thanks to a treatment you bought in the pet store then their is no need to lower your water level. Just consider yourself the luckiest fish owner alive for treating with a store bought cure and your loach living through the ordeal.

The fact that your nitrAte is 0 and that you cant get a good reading on your nitrIte concerns me a little. If I were in your position, having a possibly faulty test kit and sick fish, I would bring a water sample to the pet store and ask them to test the levels for me. They usually do that for you at no cost.


toxicbiscuitj28
 
Posts: 51
Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:29 pm

by toxicbiscuitj28

.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

. 2


toxicbiscuitj28
 
Posts: 51
Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:29 pm

by toxicbiscuitj28

Ok, thanks. I will bring a sample of water to the pet store in 2 weeks for nitrite testing, i was already going up there so why not bring the sample. The reason it's 2 weeks is because it's a long way up. 'yasherloach' told me to stop using PH buffer, i have only used it since i got everything and a few days ago. But how often should i use it? PH can't stay 7.2 for all the time. Thing about the loach is, i have not seen him since AFTER i redone everything in my tank, Gravel, Plants, Rocks, Driftwood.
I suppose he's buried under the gravel, The guy in the shop said that the gravel was glass but very very filed down on the edges and it's very small and easy to move.


tekneb
 
Posts: 211
Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 3:45 am

by tekneb

Okay, I'm going to explain pH to you in a simple yet detailed terms as I can, since you don't seem to understand what we're all saying. pH is NOT a chemical or additive in water. IT DOES NOT GO AWAY. pH stand for Percent Hydrogen, it is a scale used to determine how acidic a substance is. The pH scale ranges from 1-14 with 1 being highly acidic (battery acid is about a 2.5) and 14 being highly basic (bleach is about a 10, lye is about a 13). Dead smack in the middle at 7.0 is H20, pure good ol' fashioned water. Water left by itself will always, ALWAYS remain at 7.0. The pH of water will change only when another substance is added which causes it to become more acidic/basic. When someone says their pH has gone up, it does not mean that more pH has been added, it means that their water has become more basic.

Get it? Good? We move on...

Fish coming from different regions of the world need different pH's because water from one area of the world won't have the same stuff in it as another part of the world, and therefore won't have the same pH. This is why your loach needs a lower pH requirement then your other fish. However, many fish, including your loach, can tolerate a pH of 7, because that's what water is naturally. And all of your fish, including your loach and your tetras, are relatively tough and can tolerate a fairly wide pH range.

In a fish tank, pH can vary from waters normal 7.0 for many reasons. Your tap water may already be at a high pH from additives your local health department puts in the water. Fish poo has ammonia, which is slightly acidic and can alter pH over time. Driftwood, plants, seashells, filter additives and various and numerous decorations can all make water go up (more basic) or down (more acidic) the pH scale. However, all of these things change your pH very gradually, thereby not stressing your fish out as long as it stays within or close to that safe range.

The "proper ph" stuff that you bought is what is known in the hobby as a pH buffer. It takes whatever substance is causing your water to stray from 7.0 and uses a chemical reaction to essentially "lock it up". It brings your pH back to a 7.0 but does so within minutes. That drastic and sudden change can put severe strain on a fishes biological processes and could stress them out to the point of death. That is why we are all telling you TO IMMEDIATELY STOP USING IT. Your loach can handle 7.2, and if you are still concerned about your pH being to high (basic) add driftwood to bring the pH down gradually and safely. I seriously hope you read this and that it makes sense, otherwise all this typing was pointless.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

excellent tekneb - if toxic does not understand and put into practice your comments, then this thread should be stopped for what is the point - only to debate or argue a moot point?

nevertheless, tekneb explained it thoroughly and brilliantly...I'll leave it at this unless toxic decides to take our advice and stop using ph buffer agents of any kind - it is up to toxic from here on in


dream2reef
 
Posts: 521
Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:19 am

by dream2reef

I agree. When I didn't have a test kit I just changed the water every other day or just twice as much as normal when I noticed anything. Since using stresscoat every water change and when I notice more quarrels in the tank or torn fins I treat the whole tank fins are recovered in 3-5 days generally results seen in one. 7-14 on the bad ones. On the buffers once you buffer you always have to buffer. Those fish were bought and raised in the same water you are putting them in they have already acclimated and prolly evolved to cope with it. It would save alot of money not using it and no stress when you're gone at least a little less. I sold 9 harlequin rasboras 19 neons 3 rainbows and a partridge in a pear tree to switch to cichlids I don't lose them at all. I used to lose fish left and right in the community fish. They are way more fun to watch and they interact with one another so differently then community. They really all have huge personalities. But I'm a nerd so do what you'd like toxic
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Neon Tetras dieing?

24 posts • Page 2 of 3

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