Testing

10 posts

Discuss all topics related to freshwater and planted tanks.


HeidiG
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:23 pm

Testing

by HeidiG

My tank is still reading "4" for ammonia and 0 for nitrate & nitrites. All other levels are fine except the water hardness has raised to a "hard" level. Is this ok?


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

your tank is still in the initial phase...4 ppm ammonia is pretty high (your fish are very stressed now....harder to breathe)...best thing to do is do a 50% water change right now

the ammonia level will continue to rise as you test every other day ot so, you will see it begin to drop as your nitrite level begins to rise (nitrite 0 right now tells me your tank has a long way to go), the good thing about nitrite is, it will rise, but when the nitrite does drop, usually overnight, the ammonia will drop as well to 0, and while your nitrite drops the nitrate will rise and then go back down slightly to its basic level unless you water change which will bring the nitrate back down to 0.

A water change literally takes these chemicals: ammonia, nitrite and nitrate out of the water column, and with the new water (with water conditioner like Prime), replenishes the water in the tank with new electrons or amino acids that the fish need plus other assorted chemicals like oxygen.

Just continue to water test and water change, and watch the nitrite rise...it's a process in itself. The bacteria are actually living species in the tank.

As far as the hardness is concerned, here is a basic chart:

0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, 320 - 530 ppm : hard

Most fish will fall either in the 4-8 or 8-12...the best place for all the fish is between 4-10. I would need the exact ppm (parts per million) to know what type of advice to give you. But you probably safe here unless it is very hard.

keep us up to date with the testing, look forward to the next tabulation


HeidiG
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:23 pm

by HeidiG

Today's test shows ammonia at 3, nitrite 1, hardness at 300. I will change the water today. Maybe this is a slight sign that the cycle is starting to move. Any suggestion on the hardness of 300? The fish seem to be doing well.

Thanks for all your advice!


GiantDogg
 
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:24 pm

by GiantDogg

Congratulations, the initial stage of your cycle has begun. It will still be awhile. Yaskercoach has written volumes on cycling, so I won't add to it, he does a great job.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

ammonia going down and nitrite going up is a perfect sign that your tank is almost at the midpoint, this is a great natural sign. Yes, you may do a water change (a good 50% water change will help bring the ammonia further down).

300 hardness is pretty hard. Your fish has a breakdown of the following:

mollies: 10 to 25
gourami: 4 to 10
corycat: 2 to 12
redtail shark: 10 to 15
tetra: 4 to 8

with an average of 10 or 140 to 210 ppm (medium hard). At 300 ppm, it is a bit high; but I must stress this: please please do not add any chemicals to offset the hardness.

Hardness and ph go hand in hand. If it is possible you can purchase a ph kit (if you have, even better...let me know what it reads)...the good thing about your hardness is, it is not too soft (too soft is worse than harder water for the ph will fluctuate even more).

This is the advice: do not add any chemicals to the water to bring the hardness down. The hardness in the water will eventually settle as the tank settles. If the wood in your tank is real (if not, please tell me and I will advise from there...real malaysian wood or bogwood (of course must first be boiled for about 2 hours before use) will help neutralize the ph and therefore help with the hardness...but meanwhile, just keep your eye on the bacterium cycle (ammonia-nitrite-nitrate conversion)...the hardness is okay for now.

Anyway, to make a long suggestion short: continue to monitor the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate...water change 50% at least every week. If there is a spike of hardness that goes down to soft or a spike that goes higher than 300 ppm, then again, do another 50% water change and explain asap what happened, and I will help you. Purchase a ph kit (ph is much more important than hardness...in order words, without ph there is no hardness, the both go hand in hand...if you like for me to explain the chemical interaction on hardness and ph I will do, but it may bore you, I do not know, just let me know).

Here's a trick you may want to do: test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, then write it down...do a 50% water change...test again for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate...write it down...and you'll see a difference. As time goes by, you will notice the flucuations which in turn will signal you as to when to change the water etc.

A calender book with enough space for notation should be in every fishkeepers keeping.

Hope this helps....let me know how things are going.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

btw thanks for the compliment GiantDogg


HeidiG
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:23 pm

by HeidiG

The ph tested at 7.8. This is from a "stick" test. I have a liquid ph test in the mail on the way to me now. I'm changing the water and will test tomorrow am to see if there are any changes.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

ph 7.8 is a little high, should be around 7.2 to 7.5...but here's the breakdown for your fish:

mollie: 7.5 to 8.5
gourami: 6.0 to 7.5
catfish: 5.8 to 7.0
shark: 6.5. to 7.5
tetra: 5.8 to 8.5

so the average is around 7.5 (excluding the catfish, but the catfish will be okay as long as there are water changes)

Let me ask you, that piece of wood in your tank, what type is it and is it real? Malaysian or bogwood, the real stuff, should bring your ph down. The more of the wood, the more your ph will be neutralized (just make sure it is thoroughly boiled).

Good to see you will have liquid test kit, more precise.

Continue to do what you are doing, test & water change...in time, the ammonia and nitrite will read 0...when the 0 remains 0 for at least 2 weeks, and the nitrate is not above 40ppm (40 ppm is a little high, but for now, it will do...best to have nitrate at 15 to 25 ppm), and the nitrate remains between 15 to 40 ppm for a good 4 weeks, then you have a tank that is cycled or a balanced tank. Then we can go from there...meantime, keep me up to date, so far, things are going well.


HeidiG
 
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:23 pm

by HeidiG

The wood is real, malaysian driftwood, and it was boiled for over 2 hrs.

I'm interested to see what all the liquid tests results will be (ph, nitrite, nitrate). The only liquid I've been using was for the ammonia level.


yasherkoach
 
Posts: 1306
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm

by yasherkoach

liquid tests will be more precise...it takes a little longer but you get a much better read

well if you can purchase another piece of real malaysian driftwood, boil it, and place it in the tank, it will help to lower the ph.

keep us tuned in...always happy to help

Testing

10 posts

Display posts from previous: Sort by: