btw, PK excellent advice....or else, I would have wrote a book on this one :)
NIce thread though...a thread like this should have a special section so all new fishkeepers can learn of the hobby right off the bat. Though it is cool to share our experience and/or know how.
Anyway, excellent advice from those who participated in this thread. Enjoyed it.
Need Help with High Ammonia!
30 posts • Page 2 of 3
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
Kraigt is correct, a redtail shark is semi-aggressive, so you need to have caves so the other fish can have some security in the tank. Redtails only grow to about 4 inches, so you should be okay...though a bigger tank will provide more territory and hiding places for the fish. Your choice...beings you are in the starting gate, 20 gal will be fine for now. In about 6 months to a year's time, maybe you can get a tank like your fathers (55 gallon, which is actually, in my opinion, the best size tank to begin with in this hobby).
I did want to say one thing - again I find complete fault in that salesperson who wants to make money...you should only have 1-2 fish, like the tetras to begin the cycling. Of course it is too late, and with all these fish, you may have a little more trouble cycling, but next time you begin this hobby, only 2 tetras or hardy fish should be added at first as to not overhwlem the good bacteria. I love bacteria, another nice little species in our tanks. If the bacteria is not overhwlemed, these little guys in the thousands will do more work for you than you can ever imagine.
Anyway, thanks for this thread...and it's growing :)
keep us posted...wait 2-3 weeks, water test etc and let us know how it's going. Most of us have experience with established tanks so we'll help you get here.
Happy fishing!
I did want to say one thing - again I find complete fault in that salesperson who wants to make money...you should only have 1-2 fish, like the tetras to begin the cycling. Of course it is too late, and with all these fish, you may have a little more trouble cycling, but next time you begin this hobby, only 2 tetras or hardy fish should be added at first as to not overhwlem the good bacteria. I love bacteria, another nice little species in our tanks. If the bacteria is not overhwlemed, these little guys in the thousands will do more work for you than you can ever imagine.
Anyway, thanks for this thread...and it's growing :)
keep us posted...wait 2-3 weeks, water test etc and let us know how it's going. Most of us have experience with established tanks so we'll help you get here.
Happy fishing!
Last edited by yasherkoach on Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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HeidiG - Posts: 25
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:23 pm
How often do you recommend that I test the water?
I will be looking for the ammonia to drop, nitrites to rise, then for the nitrites to drop as the nitrates rise (safe level).
After then, replace 1 of the filter cartridges every 4 - 6 weeks.
We lost one of my daughter's mollies last night (2nd fish lost) - lot's of crying and hugs. We now have a total of 8 fish.
I will also cont. water changes frequently until the full cycle has occurred.
I will be looking for the ammonia to drop, nitrites to rise, then for the nitrites to drop as the nitrates rise (safe level).
After then, replace 1 of the filter cartridges every 4 - 6 weeks.
We lost one of my daughter's mollies last night (2nd fish lost) - lot's of crying and hugs. We now have a total of 8 fish.
I will also cont. water changes frequently until the full cycle has occurred.
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HeidiG - Posts: 25
- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:23 pm
1 more Q. Since the redtail shark and albino cory are bottom feeders and my tank is new (lack of alge, etc.) will they get enough to eat with a very smaill flake feeding 2x daily?
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
I have a strict regimen I keep.
Every Thursday, the on the 55 gallon freshwater tank, I take 8 gallon of water out; on Sunday, I take another 8 gallons water out. On Sunday, I test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Every day, I log in temperature. If you have live plants, you may test for iron once a month (but this is not necessary unless the leaves are dying).
On a new tank, as yours is, test 3 or 4 times a week for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate (I did this when I first got my tank), also temperature every day. You want to make sure there are no extremes in the water test. You may also test for PH (I do this now about every other month for I know it is well balanced), but on a new tank, you want a steady PH (the wood you have, I take is real, will help the PH steady itself).
So for the next 4-6 weeks, test 3 or 4 times for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate; every day for temperature; once a week for ph.
On water changes, becaus eyour tank is new, and sadly (you did not know), too many fish in the tank means too much poop equals too much ammonia equals diseaster for a new tank because the bio-load or the bacteria in the filter cannot handle it, so your ammonia is very toxic which is killing your fish, it literally suffocates them to death (it's as if you were in a small room and someone placed gas methane in it...horrid image, but very true)...anyway, because of so many fish, you want to change the water either 2 ways, if you do not have a water test kit for ammonia (nitrite and nitrate...please do not get them now, liquid tests are much more precise) you will go by blind faith, so change the water 25% every 3-4 days (so half the tank is completely water cleaned each week...now if a fish dies, you want to do an immediate 50% water change for the fish is telling you that something is wrong with the tank or the ammonia is way too high), or if you have a test kit, you test for ammonia every other day, you will see exactly the ppm's or the level of ammonia in the tank and water change therefrom, say 25% to 50%.
You will get to understand that this hobby will pay off once you put a little steady time into it. After awhile it becomes habit. It takes me about 30 minutes each week, both days, to do the routine tasks to the tank.
The redtail shark will always be on the move (it is not necessarily a bottom feeder); freeze dried blood worms and vegetable based wafers will suffice for now. In the tank I have, every other day, I supply the living inhabitants with frozen bloodworms, beefheart, daphina, tubifex worms, and brine shrimp (on Sunday I do not feed for it helps to clean their disgestive systems out). Because the redtail shark likes vegetable based foods, I'll tell you something most fish like (I feed mine it in between the frozen foods) that most people do not use, and the best part, it cleans out their digestive tracts of any possible blockage: peas. You must by fresh canned peas, take the shell off and place about 5 to 10 of the mush into the tank...your fish especially the shark will go crazy. Redtails will eat flake, but you must buy them top shelf flake. (you may order from dr fosters.com (that's where I buy most of my foods, Prime water conditioner, aquarium salt, water test kits, etc).
Albino corycat is a bottom feeder. I'll give you a trick that I use that helps direct the food down to the bottom feeders (I have dwarf chain loaches, bottom feeders...though they help themselves to the snails all the time), but I do have dwarf african frogs, and the way I feed them at the bottom of the tank is with a turkey baster. Fill the bulb up with a little water, place whatever food inside, direct the needle to wherever you like in the tank, and wham: bottom feeders love ya for it - that way they do not have to wait for it to fall from the surface, where most of the other fish will get it first).
Albino corycats will eat flake, or actually anything like the redtail shark except they're not too crazy about the vegetable...you may purchase some live worms (blackworms are excellent)...I do this only as a rare treat, about once a month...you can keep them alive in a container in your.....yes, refrigerator (or in a secure container outside if the area is warm; best kept in water).
So there ya have it...I hope I helped.
By the way, on the food, please please do not overfeed. Find what your fish like best, vary the types of foods, and after routine maintenance and observation, you'll find yourself truly enjoying this hobby.
Happy fishing!
Every Thursday, the on the 55 gallon freshwater tank, I take 8 gallon of water out; on Sunday, I take another 8 gallons water out. On Sunday, I test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Every day, I log in temperature. If you have live plants, you may test for iron once a month (but this is not necessary unless the leaves are dying).
On a new tank, as yours is, test 3 or 4 times a week for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate (I did this when I first got my tank), also temperature every day. You want to make sure there are no extremes in the water test. You may also test for PH (I do this now about every other month for I know it is well balanced), but on a new tank, you want a steady PH (the wood you have, I take is real, will help the PH steady itself).
So for the next 4-6 weeks, test 3 or 4 times for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate; every day for temperature; once a week for ph.
On water changes, becaus eyour tank is new, and sadly (you did not know), too many fish in the tank means too much poop equals too much ammonia equals diseaster for a new tank because the bio-load or the bacteria in the filter cannot handle it, so your ammonia is very toxic which is killing your fish, it literally suffocates them to death (it's as if you were in a small room and someone placed gas methane in it...horrid image, but very true)...anyway, because of so many fish, you want to change the water either 2 ways, if you do not have a water test kit for ammonia (nitrite and nitrate...please do not get them now, liquid tests are much more precise) you will go by blind faith, so change the water 25% every 3-4 days (so half the tank is completely water cleaned each week...now if a fish dies, you want to do an immediate 50% water change for the fish is telling you that something is wrong with the tank or the ammonia is way too high), or if you have a test kit, you test for ammonia every other day, you will see exactly the ppm's or the level of ammonia in the tank and water change therefrom, say 25% to 50%.
You will get to understand that this hobby will pay off once you put a little steady time into it. After awhile it becomes habit. It takes me about 30 minutes each week, both days, to do the routine tasks to the tank.
The redtail shark will always be on the move (it is not necessarily a bottom feeder); freeze dried blood worms and vegetable based wafers will suffice for now. In the tank I have, every other day, I supply the living inhabitants with frozen bloodworms, beefheart, daphina, tubifex worms, and brine shrimp (on Sunday I do not feed for it helps to clean their disgestive systems out). Because the redtail shark likes vegetable based foods, I'll tell you something most fish like (I feed mine it in between the frozen foods) that most people do not use, and the best part, it cleans out their digestive tracts of any possible blockage: peas. You must by fresh canned peas, take the shell off and place about 5 to 10 of the mush into the tank...your fish especially the shark will go crazy. Redtails will eat flake, but you must buy them top shelf flake. (you may order from dr fosters.com (that's where I buy most of my foods, Prime water conditioner, aquarium salt, water test kits, etc).
Albino corycat is a bottom feeder. I'll give you a trick that I use that helps direct the food down to the bottom feeders (I have dwarf chain loaches, bottom feeders...though they help themselves to the snails all the time), but I do have dwarf african frogs, and the way I feed them at the bottom of the tank is with a turkey baster. Fill the bulb up with a little water, place whatever food inside, direct the needle to wherever you like in the tank, and wham: bottom feeders love ya for it - that way they do not have to wait for it to fall from the surface, where most of the other fish will get it first).
Albino corycats will eat flake, or actually anything like the redtail shark except they're not too crazy about the vegetable...you may purchase some live worms (blackworms are excellent)...I do this only as a rare treat, about once a month...you can keep them alive in a container in your.....yes, refrigerator (or in a secure container outside if the area is warm; best kept in water).
So there ya have it...I hope I helped.
By the way, on the food, please please do not overfeed. Find what your fish like best, vary the types of foods, and after routine maintenance and observation, you'll find yourself truly enjoying this hobby.
Happy fishing!
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yasherkoach - Posts: 1306
- Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:24 pm
one other thing, short note: feed flakes once a day, just enough so all the fish get it...frozen foods (it can be thawed in the microwave for about 20 seconds) every other day...freeze dried, every day, once...a lot of people would say twice a day at a certain time...I say, I beg to differ....
in the wild, fish are fed whenever it falls out of the sky (from leaves etc) or by certain other types of specimens in the water...but they never know when. When & how much are the keys to feeding.
You want a varied diet; about once a day, feed no more than 2-3 minutes or upon observation you know as a fact all the fish received something; and as far as when, up to you (except in the dark...for fish do "sleep" or their heart rates go way down into a meditative rest, I prefer to respect them...and though the frogs would prefer food at night, I do not want to disturb the entire tank for a few frogs...the frogs do eat well in the day, so another fallacy shot down driven by so called experts).
Fish are scavengers by nature. They will feed on the tank remnants etc in between your feedings. Fish are up to two things most of the day: scavenging and breeding. So do not think you did not feed enough...there is plenty specimens the human eye cannot see in the tank that a fish can and will eat.
Anyway, until you bring us back up to date, I will "shut up" :)
in the wild, fish are fed whenever it falls out of the sky (from leaves etc) or by certain other types of specimens in the water...but they never know when. When & how much are the keys to feeding.
You want a varied diet; about once a day, feed no more than 2-3 minutes or upon observation you know as a fact all the fish received something; and as far as when, up to you (except in the dark...for fish do "sleep" or their heart rates go way down into a meditative rest, I prefer to respect them...and though the frogs would prefer food at night, I do not want to disturb the entire tank for a few frogs...the frogs do eat well in the day, so another fallacy shot down driven by so called experts).
Fish are scavengers by nature. They will feed on the tank remnants etc in between your feedings. Fish are up to two things most of the day: scavenging and breeding. So do not think you did not feed enough...there is plenty specimens the human eye cannot see in the tank that a fish can and will eat.
Anyway, until you bring us back up to date, I will "shut up" :)
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kraigt - Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:18 pm
lol i absolutely love the way you put short note, write an essay and then have to tell yourself to shut up haha
But I'm loving the advice from so many, and so much of it too, setting up is definately the hardest bit, but once you know what your doing, the results are amazing, you can never ask enough daft questions in my apinion
nice going PK and Yasher
But I'm loving the advice from so many, and so much of it too, setting up is definately the hardest bit, but once you know what your doing, the results are amazing, you can never ask enough daft questions in my apinion
nice going PK and Yasher
