Live Rock/Sand
When talking about live rock, it is a misconception that the rock itself is alive. What makes it live are the many forms of micro and macroscopic marine life that live on and inside of it. The rock itself is only made up of the calcium carbonate skeletons of long dead corals, or other calcareous organisms. The use of live rock immediately introduces into the aquarium numerous algae, bacteria and small invertebrates that contribute to the overall quality of the aquarium water. Live rock has just as much, if not more, surface area for bacteria than a trickle filter. Since live rock in the aquarium contains various types of bacteria, algae and corals, waste products such as ammonia, nitrate and phosphate can have a number of fates. Algae and corals growing on and in the rock readily assimilate them. Ammonia can also be quickly converted into nitrate by the bacteria on and in the rock. The algae and corals can either absorb this nitrate, or bacteria in close proximity to the nitrate-producing bacteria can denitrify it.
Live sand is loaded with beneficial bacteria that break down nitrogen-based waste produced by tank inhabitants. Several types of worms and crustaceans found in live sand are also beneficial and are used by many fish as a natural food source. The grain size of live sand ranges from fine (sugar size) to medium grade. The recommended amount of Live Sand for an aquarium is 1 to 1-1/2 pounds per gallon, depending on the desired thickness. For a sand layer of 2 inches, 1-1/2 pounds per gallon will work well.
Macroalgae
Caulerpa is macroalgae that falls into the green algae group. It grows in various shades of bright green colors, as well as different forms and shapes - some growing tall, others growing as mats. With over a hundred of this species found in tropical and temperate waters worldwide, two of the most common forms popular with aquarists are the Feather and Grape varieties. Macroalgae uses runners and roots for anchoring themselves in place, deriving their nourishment (nitrates & phosphates) from the water by means of absorption through their blades or fronds.
The feather-like blades that extend from the branches that grow upright from the rhizome (runner) can easily identify the Feather species. The Grape species are identified by the characteristic miniature round grape-like clusters that form on the branches that stem upright from the rhizome of these plants. Another form of Caulerpa is the Razor type, also known as the Razor Ribbon. They are recognizable because of the razor-like appearance of their blades.
Corals
While it has become easier than ever to find exotic corals from online retailers, the biggest challenge is in handling and acclimating these delicate creatures to an aquarium environment. But with a careful touch and the right approach, experienced aquarium hobbyists can enjoy a beautiful living reef in their own aquarium. A pair of Aqua Gloves or disposable gloves is highly recommended when handling all corals, and will reduce the possibility of irritating the coral. Always handle all corals with a gentle touch in order to minimize the chances of damaging the specimen.
Corals are highly adaptive to different lighting conditions, but some are more sensitive to change than others. It takes time for a coral to acclimate to its new environment, and care must be taken to help it make the adjustment.
When determining the final placement of coral in your aquarium, research the lighting and water flow requirements carefully. Pay particular attention to the coral's aggression toward other inhabitants within the aquarium as well. Then you can place the coral in an open space within the rockwork. Don't forget to allow room for future growth.
Running the Tank System
Shut down all tank devices and draw out the water. Fill the tank back up with the saltwater mixture. Key points to remember include:
- If the mixture was blended in a separate receptacle you will need to add saltwater to the tank and filtration devices
- Avoid any un-liquefied fragments that have settled to the receptacle floor
- Restart all tank devices and allow them to operate for a few days
- Protein skimmers will deliver oxygen to the water and augment gas replacement
- The technique for in tank saltwater blending is identical to that of using a separate receptacle except you need to operate only the devices required for mixing.
- Once the saltwater is blended add some to the filtration devices and run the rest of the devices as mentioned above.
Over the next few days while the tank is in operation you will need to check the following:
- Water temperature (keep between 72-79 degrees)
- Salinity, adding water to compensate for any that is lost during vaporization and to regulate specific gravity (measure salinity (specific gravity) with a hydrometer. Adjust salinity to the desired level. Adding salt or water as needed can do this. NOTE: Recommended specific gravity is 1.021-1.023 for marine fish and 1.021-1.024 for marine invertebrates.
- pH levels (pH Up raises the pH of your tank, making water more alkaline. This is good for African Cichlid tanks. pH Down lowers pH levels making water more acidic. This is good for egg-laying fish and certain live plants. So basically pH levels will depend heavily on the type of fish you plan to have in the tank. Check with your local pet store regarding the proper levels once you purchase your fish.
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