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Getting The Tank Ready

The tank needs to be washed with unsalted water and a non-abrasive rag or sponge. Now you will need to:

• Set-up the display stand remembering to leave room around the tank perimeter for maintenance purposes and power outlet accessibility
• Before setting the tank onto the display stand put in some type of cushion-like material
• Make sure the stand is balanced to prevent tipping
• Once the tank is set and leveled off put in any devices needed to operate the system, but don't plug them in just yet
• You can add unsalted water to the tank and filtration devices.
• At this point you have the option of adding an aquascape, as outlined above, which is a technique of incorporating certain natural and non-natural ingredients i.e. rocks, decorations, plants, to the tank to impart an impression of a natural ecosystem. You can also add a background to the tank as a decorative touch if you like.

Wet Testing
For the first day or two the tank system will be operated without the addition of livestock. This is called a wet test and it allows you to make sure that all of the equipment is in good working order and that the tank structure is solid. For the period of this time you will need to:

• Perform a wet test by starting all the equipment and allow the tank to run for 24-48 hours. During this time, check for leaks, trickling or other loss of water, temperature with and without lights on, adjust and fine tune the heater(s), as well as make up the saltwater mixture per the manufacturer's instructions.
• If using a protein skimmer, at this time no waste will be produced until salt and organic matter are added to the tank, but you can check for bubble production, and if using a counter current skimmer, test the air pump operation.

After the wet test has been completed measure the height of the tank water. This is to ensure it remains at a sufficient level while all devices are functioning. This needs to be done while the tank is still full of water and all devices are still active.

If necessary you can add additional water to reach the correct height. Once the water is at the ideal height, mark an area on the external surface of the tank with a permanent marker. You now have an indicator in the event that you need to add more water in the future.

Mixing Sea Salt
When selecting a sea salt mixture choose one that has a similar makeup as salt naturally found in seawater and one that contains as little contaminants as possible. Make sure that it includes all natural trace elements plus high calcium and magnesium concentrations to promote optimal growth for your fish and invertebrates. It is additionally important to make sure that it contains no nitrate, phosphate, or ammonia to minimize aggressive algae growth.

You will need a fairly large container to mix the sea salt mixture correctly. If you have a very large tank, you will need a good size container or you will have to mix it in the tank itself before starting the system up. Use a large mixing utensil such as a large spoon or paddle of some type and mix the sea salt according to package directions. It is mixed with ordinary tap water and stirred until fully dissolved.

Pour in the sea salt mixture letting un-dissolved particles settle on the bottom of the container. Adjust the specific gravity of the filter to the desired salinity, if needed. Turn off the pumps and heater while pouring the mixture in the tank or mixing it in the tank directly.

Hydrometers
Hydrometers are instruments that are used to measure the specific gravity of a fluid such as saltwater.

Example - Taking the measurement of the saline level or salt content in water.

Taking the time to test your saltwater aquarium water whether it is a fish-only or reef tank system is a very important part of maintenance, as it gives you an analysis of the condition or quality of the environment your marine inhabitants are living in. Top off the water level to make up for evaporation and keep the specific gravity at the desired salinity by adding freshwater to the "fill line" when needed.

Creating an Ecosystem

Selecting a Substrate

Substrates are surfaces where an organism grows or is attached and therefore is an essential element in any tank structure. It offers an aesthetic appeal, but also serve other functions such as providing places for fish to burrow, stabilizes pH levels and hides the filtration system.

Substrate provides living space for beneficial microbes, alkaline reserve and more for a system. There may be behavioral benefits for your livestock and it looks good in the tank as well. Although substrates can fulfill a biological function as well, it is not absolutely necessary to maintain a successful marine aquarium. Most aquarists however do prefer some form of substrate in their tanks or filters. When choosing your substrate, plan ahead to what your tank will be in the end (FO, FOWLR, Reef). Each substrate material has its own pros and cons. Some materials, such as crushed coral and Aragonite, are good sources of calcium, which is an element required by corals. Others are good for a wide variety of sand sifters and other substrate cleaners.

Aragonite is just one type of substrate that is used in salt-water aquariums. It has many benefits such as, it is an organic mineral that provides calcium, which some invertebrates need, comes in a variety of textures and works well with live rock, live sand, and a number of filters.

Helpful Tip: If you slope the gravel so it is higher in the back and on the sides, any waste and other matter will automatically slope downward, making it easy to siphon off while cleaning.